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View Full Version : rough surfing ALL week?



Ave
Sep 21, 2008, 12:32 PM
according to the swell info surf report there will be rough waves all week :(
hopefully it changes.

terra-firma intolerant
Sep 21, 2008, 03:32 PM
yeah, it stinks. Right now I would rather have perfect glassy waist high's than blown-out head's. Also the paddle out is a lot harder... especially if you have a cold:(

beagleagle
Sep 21, 2008, 06:39 PM
thats what im saying.

i have this entire week off from school. :D

watch it will clean up on saturday and sunday and every surfer in town will be there.

wbsurfer
Sep 21, 2008, 07:13 PM
that will probably happen.

naked spearfisher
Sep 21, 2008, 08:16 PM
if you know where to go this week, then it will not b choppy. and if u dont, then ur a kook.

wbsurfer
Sep 21, 2008, 10:00 PM
if you know where to go this week, then it will not b choppy. and if u dont, then ur a kook.

defiently if you dont know were to go then your a kook but if you know were to go then try and help the kook friends out a little.

fishinwitha510
Sep 21, 2008, 11:38 PM
man, have you ever heard of GOOGLE EARTH???? or a map????? know the swell direction, and the wind direction, and go where its all gonna line up. you dont need some one to tell you, just fiqure it out for your self. all of yous

wbsurfer
Sep 22, 2008, 12:05 AM
man, have you ever heard of GOOGLE EARTH???? or a map????? know the swell direction, and the wind direction, and go where its all gonna line up. you dont need some one to tell you, just fiqure it out for your self. all of yous

i do i dont need no help with sell its just my grammar thar needs help.

eclipse13
Sep 22, 2008, 01:36 AM
Maybe not everyone knows how to read a swell map. Maybe some people don't know how to tell where it is going to line up. I'm willing to bet there was a time when you didn't either.

Just because you are an asshole doesn't make everyone else kooks.

fishinwitha510
Sep 22, 2008, 02:43 AM
self taught bhah. any how. look for a south, or sw facer that withh have N ortherly, to NE winds, thats the main thing. the swell will wrap in if its big enough. frisco in the obx is the best bet.

ecsurfernc
Sep 22, 2008, 03:33 AM
Please help me!
I can't figure anything out myself. I'm sorry but I have no critical thinking skills. Where is the best place to surf and when?
Thanks
Turtle

beagleagle
Sep 22, 2008, 04:09 AM
this year ive been trying to pay attention and be aware of conditions down at the beach on things like tides, how a spot works rising or falling, affects of wind on the surface- direction and strength, (temporary) positions of sandbars, swell directions.... trying to get a feeling of our environment. ive been surfing almost everyday so its nice to try to get in rythm. no more dawn patrols before classes soon though.. dunno what im gonna do :rolleyes:

the other day i drew a compass rose, held it over a map of the beach on my computer monitor (so it would be positioned correctly north and south) and traced the coast thru the center of the rose. i think it helps put wind direction in perspective a little. try looking at a map of the coast like someone mentioned earlier.

wind equals waves- the more distance the wind gets to travel over water the more momentum it gives the water before the swell and wind gets here. this is called fetch- the distance a wind can blow over water.

an example of this: offshore winds make it so glassy because there is such a small amount of water being blown over before it reaches the lineup that it does not stir much water, while an onshore wind or sideshore will produce more chop due to the larger amount of fetch.

as far as where to surf- look for where it is lining up better of breaking more consistantly on a higher tide maybe. 50 yards away will break while where your sitting may be too deep, or ttoo shallow and closing out. get experience and learn what to look for. pay attention to the way a spot breaks with big waves and with little waves.

like surfing it will come eventually thru perseverance and patience and understanding, and is best taught to yourself by yourself.

eclipse13
Sep 22, 2008, 05:04 AM
self taught bhah. any how. look for a south, or sw facer that withh have N ortherly, to NE winds, thats the main thing. the swell will wrap in if its big enough. frisco in the obx is the best bet.

See, wasn't that easy. You didn't have to tell people where to go, but you help them to know how to find it. Makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside doesn't it? :D

bfloyd
Sep 22, 2008, 09:13 PM
this year ive been trying to pay attention and be aware of conditions down at the beach on things like tides, how a spot works rising or falling, affects of wind on the surface- direction and strength, (temporary) positions of sandbars, swell directions.... trying to get a feeling of our environment. ive been surfing almost everyday so its nice to try to get in rythm. no more dawn patrols before classes soon though.. dunno what im gonna do :rolleyes:

the other day i drew a compass rose, held it over a map of the beach on my computer monitor (so it would be positioned correctly north and south) and traced the coast thru the center of the rose. i think it helps put wind direction in perspective a little. try looking at a map of the coast like someone mentioned earlier.

wind equals waves- the more distance the wind gets to travel over water the more momentum it gives the water before the swell and wind gets here. this is called fetch- the distance a wind can blow over water.

an example of this: offshore winds make it so glassy because there is such a small amount of water being blown over before it reaches the lineup that it does not stir much water, while an onshore wind or sideshore will produce more chop due to the larger amount of fetch.

as far as where to surf- look for where it is lining up better of breaking more consistantly on a higher tide maybe. 50 yards away will break while where your sitting may be too deep, or ttoo shallow and closing out. get experience and learn what to look for. pay attention to the way a spot breaks with big waves and with little waves.

like surfing it will come eventually thru perseverance and patience and understanding, and is best taught to yourself by yourself.Y

Thanks for the surf forecasting 101. You sound like a narrator for a how to surf video..So your starting to figure out how the ocean works around here eh? The combination of fluvial geomorphology, oceanography, climatology and atmospheric sciences will make and ass out of you and me every single year along the southeast coast. It will drive you nuts too look into it too much, however you can learn alot. The one thing that stays constant is those exposed breaks( ex. WB-C Street, Hatteras-S Turns, St, Aug-2nd Light, etc). ALWAYS get swell when there is a swell and hold it much longer, it has been that way for decades and is always the case. Accretion and erosion are the two major elements along southeast coast and occ. after much patience and study of this you can pinpoint some bars better than others on certain swells, swell direction, wind, etc. Otherwise you can find yourself running in circles.

beagleagle
Sep 23, 2008, 02:38 AM
thanks for the compliment man.also as i sarcastically and pessimistically predicted, it looks like it will be rough all week and clean up this weekend. friday could be awesome though. saturday even more so but it will naturally be more crowded.

eclipse13
Sep 23, 2008, 04:36 AM
My best remedy for crowds, if you can do it, is to just go all day. Get there in the morning before most people get up on Saturday, surf for a few hours, go grab some lunch or rest on the beach, and then go out again. Keep an eye out for when the lineup gets sparce and just in until it gets busy again.

beagleagle
Sep 25, 2008, 12:03 AM
AHH!!! The swell forecast is bugging me out. Clean conditions keep getting pushed further and further away.

Swell Info- you are breaking my heart.

wbsurfer
Sep 25, 2008, 12:08 AM
AHH!!! The swell forecast is bugging me out. Clean conditions keep getting pushed further and further away.

Swell Info- you are breaking my heart.

they're breaking my heart too dont worry we still have 3 more days to go it can all change as the week gets closer to the end.

wedge1
Sep 25, 2008, 12:11 AM
seems like the majority of the people in the se forum are a bunch of kooks... and for those of you who knew where to go, well its been fun as hell...and should continue to be for the next few days, get ya some.

bfloyd
Sep 25, 2008, 01:00 AM
Yeah, 4-5 foot at Hilton Head my arse, the reports that come from there are funny everytime I read it..My guess is it is scraping the minimum at hatteras right? What a joke

Here is how you call it bud: http://www.wblivesurf.com/

No way it was double the size of the washout down that way with the storm way offshore of WB, also the same size of Manasquan Inlet, NJ..

Measure it from the back... Before others waist gas getting there.

beagleagle
Sep 25, 2008, 01:05 AM
Oh Hey Wedgeee.... you get some nice wedges while drifting down the beach at twenty knots? I hope you did. If you "knew where to go" anywhere on WB then that's what you'd get- no one said it wasn't decent sized surf.

wedge1
Sep 25, 2008, 01:40 AM
beagleballs... haha i'll just laugh at your post.. yes i live in wb... and yes it was drifty there today... yet i caught head high NO DRIFT bombs at an undisclosed spot near wb, like i said MOST of the people on the se forum are kooks!! get some should be fun in the morn...

inzatube
Sep 25, 2008, 01:48 AM
It is nice to see that some of the surfers are willing to offer assistance to those willing to ask the questions. It should occur more frequently than it actually does.

Another method to learn more about your break is to log the conditions that are taking place while you were surfing. There are actually websites that do this for you. You enter the location, date and the time that you were surfing, and it will graph the swell direction, period and size as well as wind speed and direction for the specific timeframe that you entered, first hand knowledge of how the actual conditions compared to the forecast. You will begin to notice a pattern develop, swell direction that produces a nice ground swell, the maximum amount of swell period that your area can hold due to drag on a shallow bottom and so on..............

Keep asking questions but be sure to develop your own knowledge as well through working at it and studying the variables constantly, it will become an obsession to some...

wbsurfer
Sep 25, 2008, 01:57 AM
It is nice to see that some of the surfers are willing to offer assistance to those willing to ask the questions. It should occur more frequently than it actually does.

Another method to learn more about your break is to log the conditions that are taking place while you were surfing. There are actually websites that do this for you. You enter the location, date and the time that you were surfing, and it will graph the swell direction, period and size as well as wind speed and direction for the specific timeframe that you entered, first hand knowledge of how the actual conditions compared to the forecast. You will begin to notice a pattern develop, swell direction that produces a nice ground swell, the maximum amount of swell period that your area can hold due to drag on a shallow bottom and so on..............

Keep asking questions but be sure to develop your own knowledge as well through working at it and studying the variables constantly, it will become an obsession to some...

my parents just tell me "we would rather spend money on surfing so at least we know your not sitting at some drug addictes house during drugs and ruining your whole life." which to some surfing is a drug except its a legal drug. but kids DONT DO DRUGS they're bad and can ruin your family it happened to my friends family and they all surf in the family but they just whish there could of been something they could of done to stop him from doing drugs. also think of your family and friends youd be hurting if you did drugs. So if someone tells you you should smoke some dope or wht ever just SAY NO. it will help you in the long run.

terra-firma intolerant
Sep 25, 2008, 02:09 AM
seems like the majority of the people in the se forum are a bunch of kooks... and for those of you who knew where to go, well its been fun as hell...and should continue to be for the next few days, get ya some.

Hey, some of us can't go anywhere but WB, or CB, so sorry if we can't drive a few hour north or south

pawley
Sep 25, 2008, 02:11 AM
what does drugs have to do with any of this? and instead of asking random, and sometimes stupid questions on the internet try asking the nicer guys you surf with while at the beach. or just pay attention. or go down to your local surfshop. before the web thats how groms learned. i understand the desire to have all the info but it takes time and patience (as well as it should!) to just begin to understand all the variables that are required to have decent surf around here.

wbsurfer
Sep 25, 2008, 02:12 AM
Hey, some of us can't go anywhere but WB, or CB, so sorry if we can't drive a few hour north or south

yeah man we cant drive some of us are only 15 you know but once i get my licsense im defiently going to obx for a wekkend wit some friends.

wedge1
Sep 25, 2008, 02:45 AM
its like 10 mins either way from cb or wb... wow i shouldn't be saying this haha...nuggies in the morn!

beagleagle
Sep 25, 2008, 01:53 PM
Wedgie- how undisclosed is this spot? Is it super duper secret? So secret that you need a boat to get out there? Or to paddle for five minutes? Super duper uber secret spot brah! Now what I would like to do is run down that whole undisclosed area looking for other sandbars- it can get as crowded as WB some days, especially in that protected area that I have no idea what you're talking about.

hey inzatube that sound's pretty cool- what's that website? I really want to know, plus we could check out how hard wedge is getting it. Haha kidding wedge

Ave
Sep 29, 2008, 07:23 PM
the surf is getting a little bit better @ wrightsville beach, i looked on surfchex.com :D