The Signicance of "Period"

[Huck]

Can someone educate me a bit on the significance of period when measuring waves? I understand "period" to mean the period of time between swells. Some of the other threads seem to suggest that a swell's period will affect how the wave will break, not just how close the waves are together. Why, as some threads relating to the big swell this weekend seem to suggest, are long period swells more likely to close out and be unrideable than short period swells? I can see why the size of a wave in relation to the depth and shape of a sandbar would make a wave unrideable, but it's not clear to me why the period would affect the result. Someone help out a rookie wave scientist here. Thanks.

[Swellinfo]

take a look at this thread: http://www.swellinfo.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4156

[Huck]

Thanks, Mr. Swellinfo. This is a big help.

So... you think the waves at Southern NJ are really going to hit 13+ feet? I grew up on the Jersey shore (Avalon) and i have NEVER seen anything that big. I live in Washington, DC now, but i have half a mind to jump in my car and go up to NJ to check it out.

[Swellinfo]

looking pretty big my friend. its hard to give exact numbers, since there will be a lot of variability between breaks... Sunday morning looks best for conditions.

[MDSurfer]

Thanks, Mr. Swellinfo. This is a big help.

So... you think the waves at Southern NJ are really going to hit 13+ feet? I grew up on the Jersey shore (Avalon) and i have NEVER seen anything that big. I live in Washington, DC now, but i have half a mind to jump in my car and go up to NJ to check it out.

If I were you, I'd make a B-Line (Atlantic City Expressway) to the Jersey Shore, it's always better there.

[chadbrochill93]

this stuff still confuses me



ima do what i always done did


just get out and ride.................yyyyyyyyyeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa