Awesome! It is amazing what surfing has done for my self, my soul and most importantly for my mind...allowing me to dream big and attain any goal I set for myself, I was always self concious and had low self esteem, growing up people made fun of me for being so white, but it's not about the outside at all, it's about who you really are as a person and the love that you spread to everybody you come in contact. I am so glad that there are people here who can relate to the things I am saying and even though I don't know you, other than this post, it would be great to see you in the lineup! Hope to see you out there one day, brother! Pura Vida!
Dude, it was great reading your story. I have spent a bunch of time the last couple of years in Costa and also have had similar mystical/magical experiences that completely change your perspective, not just on surfing, but on life. To me surfing is about getting those moments of pure energy, closer to the source, to god and to all life. Thanks for reminding me what it's about.
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