Inappropriate Longboard Sizes . . .
Dear fellow surfers,
Please use a longboard that is an appropriate size for you, maybe slightly bigger or slightly smaller but nothing extreme. If you're some tiny thing of about 110 pounds, there is no reason for you to be on a 10'+ longboard. It's unnecessary.
I know that the beauty of a longboard is getting on the wave early. I hear that—I ride longboard primarily, too. But it's ****ing irritating when every other surfer is in a normal lineup and when I start paddling for a wave that I'm really in the better position (closer to the peak) for, you just paddle in from yards and yards behind the lineup and effectively snake me.
I'm sorry, but in situations like this I don't really like that "first one up gets the wave" thing. If you paddle a big enough board, of course you're going to get up before anybody else. I know you might be up on the wave before me but when you're only there because you're riding what is, in proportion to you, a floating dock, I don't think that makes it your wave. If you're going to shoot in from behind at an angle to get on the wave first and then ride in front of me, I just think that's snaking, even if you did get up first.
Sorry for the rant. Today I was surfing and it was some knee-high stuff—mostly I just wanted to get in the water—and some surfer did this to me. It pissed me off, and I'm usually pretty cool about things in the water.
It was also 4th of July and I was there since the early morning just watching the waves until the bar started working, and I wasn't too thrilled when the independence day Long Beach crowd rolled in and started crowding me out.