But... by FAR my most serious injury was bodysurfing... I got a serious concussion a few years ago when I got a knee to the head from a bodyboarder who dropped in on me. I shook it off and kept going... even surfed later that day. But the next day I couldn't even remember my name. Ended up in the hospital next morning and couldn't even stand up straight. Made some calls in to work to say I wasn't coming, but don't even remember making them.
"Post concussion syndrome." Weird sh:t....
a great place for body surfing because it has the hawaii deep water power even in small waves but has a sandy bottom (instead of the usual lava or coral). you don't even have to kick much...but the back suction on yer feet will pull yer fins right off too....
I bodyboard there and yea the breaks are tough especially after the dunes. I think Irene helped out a lot but man I can't imagine bodysurfing there
I can't wait to see this movie! I grew up bodysurfing a couple of miles north of the wedge in newport Beach. I still have the Churchill fins I got for my 14th birthday. I've bodyboarded as well and now I'm trying to learn to surf.
But, on days when I'm swimming in shore break, I bodysurf and still love it.
I'll be first in line when this film comes out.