I got creped out at a surf spot called Little Hawaii in Costa Rica. I linked up with a surf camp for the day and we checked Playa Avellana and decided to walk up to Little Hawaii. Which, I never surfed before. There were rain squalls everywhere, dark and gloomy. Not a soul in sight. Passed one river mouth that looked crocky. When we arrived at the break I was shocked to see how big it was; 10-12ft and started breaking about 400 yards out all the way into the shoreline, beautiful wave, but very heavy. We had to paddle through an eight foot shore break that was relentless. The rip was like a river (Stage 5). All I now is that the break was sand and lava reef. Lava reef is worse than coral reef, very sharp and solid. I caught a few great waves, but would pull out of any sketchy close out sections; I was in survival mode. Paddling back out to the line was a major feat. By the way, not one person made it any further than 100 yards out.
Break Details - http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Centra...aii/index.html
Playa Negra isn't sketchy! it has vacation homes and a really nice hotel cafe right in front of the main break. The wave looks a lot scarier than it is. The first time I was taken there, I thought that I was going to die.Solid 15-20+ bombs. I sat outside and watched a few local friends surf the peak for an hour. Long enough to get my head straight and grow some balls. BTW those rocks hold some delicious lobsters.
Stranded...sounds like you've been a lot of places. It's not really about the place, it was more a vibe i felt for a couple seconds there....it's happened to me b4 in OC. Heavy fog, dusk, a 7 foot shark about 20 yds away...spooky, but the waves were too good to paddle in...so i enjoyed the spookyness :eek:
People have drowned surfing Tamrindo beach..At Negra where the main wave breaks, the water is around 20 ft deep. The wave also collapses in a uniform fashion and only will close out towards the end of a long section. I haven't seen the break perfectly clean. Hopefully I can catch a good swell there in the future.
Stinson Beach N. California. Shark signs...shark alarms...chest to shoulder high, no wind and glassy... me and one guy out. Didn't know each other. Felt the vibe the whole sesh...Pucker factor=9.6. Never been so glad to be back on land. Salmon Creek N. California a close second...Go back this Feb. Can't wait to do it again.
Sketchiest spot on the east coast... definitely Manasquan Inlet. Lots of sharks and other dangerous aquatic species. lots of pointy shells on the bottom, and occasional deadly whirlpool. Do not surf here ever, no matter what.
There's a spot near Ensenada called Cannery's. Basically, it's a fish processing plant that just dumps everything it doesn't use straight into the ocean, literally making it the largest chum factory in Baja. You can't see below your knees as you sit on your board, the water is so murky. Duck diving under waves makes your skin and eyes burn like hell. Throw in the major shark vibe, and it only took one time for me to surf this place.
And then there's those Northwestern spots with their occasional Orcas....but that's another story.