During Ophelia I saw it breaking over what was the Sandbar in Chinco inlet. fishermen said you could walk out a 1/4 mile and catch the waves. Its was also wrapping around the end of the hook and into the cove. So amazing. Of course the point was amazing during that swell. chinco rules!!!
I remember it was board breaking waves on CI when I was there in October. I went out with friends. But before we went we were at Ashoals when Perry ran in to get a new leash before he went back out. Turns out he had his board ripped off leash by a wave, got sucked down " like a leaf" he said, blacked out from the water he took in, got resuscitated by a suffers mom who happens to have been watching her kid surf, and she's a nurse, then he's back in with a new leash and eating antibiotics for weeks after. Days later he told me he had to get right back charging or the experience would have overcome him. And I was charging out like a tard with them watching green faces that looked like twelves slamming my friends down their plane to the sandy bottom! I can't even stand up and I was in the ****e! Tis crazy. But happy I tried!
Yep, i went out follys creek.
Originally Posted by soulrebel
I get so happy when gruvi chimes in...