maybe where you were at...i saw 8 foot heaving barrels with guys getting spit out of them. It was truly an epic day where i was.
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OK, stop by and pick up my gear from me today...LOL. i surfed twice yesterday. it just wasn't "all time" in my opinion. lots of closeouts, SUPER crowded at the spots that held a decent wave, and the wind was a major annoyance factor. i've surfed plenty of swells the same size that were a lot more fun. that's all.
i wish i coulda been out. there was dark pits everywhere! Number 7 that i have missed now. having a seizure does not help with surfing. ive been out since early october and cant go back till january 15th. everyone thinks its easy not surfing that i talk too (family). its like telling a crack head he cant have his crack for 3 months. cant wait to be back. . .