Miki Dora was correct......
Shoot, I reckon most people on here have never even heard of Miki Dora. Anyway, even though I don't condone the methods he used to fund his lifestyle and the way he treated some people along the way, Miki Dora was the greatest American to have ever lived. He saw it all, and let us know about it 60 years ago. Ironically he helped create the madness that he so despised.
Complex people may appreciate that contradiction.
He saw what the commercialization and professionalism would do to this lifestyle. With the growth of the suburbs, the post World War II financial boom, the rise of credit, etc, Dora saw the effects that over population would have in a world of finite resources. The world's population has more than tripled in the last century. Most of it occuring in the last 60 years. Do people go on far out surf trips for the actual waves or to escape the crowds?
Surfing has declined from a life on the fringes - of adventure, connection to nature, purism - to a commercialized, "buy my boardshorts" mentality with d-bags like me arguing with morons like Ihatelongboarders on a friggin computer. Surfing used to be a life's dedication. Now corporate lawyers pull up to Philadelphia Ave in Sea Girt, hop on their cell phones to tell their other elite friends that the surf is cranking......scheduling a nooner. A once noble pursuit, secretley admired by the stuffy, now has become a hobby for yuppie types who treat it like tennis.
Hopefully the non-comitted will move on to other fads, after they see some movie glorifying something else. HA, there goes half of this website's participants.The "Spicoli" stereotype still exists but it really isn't represenatative of today's surfing populace. Oh sure, there are still a lot of less intelligent types in surfing. That hasn't changed - just scan these boards. Many of the people on here never post a message over two sentences, and it's usually just four or five words. It's easy to be "liked" when you are basically a non-factor...a forgetable, nameless, nothing, lost in the masses.
The people who stand out are the Miki Doras of the world. Those with the foresight, intelligence and soul to look at the world and say, "Hold on.....this is not right." People with the courage to stand out from the average joe and speak the truth no matter how unpopular it may be. Everything Dora predicted has come true. Look around you....at the state of the world....at the state of surfing. It's actually worse than he imagined. I don't think Dora saw the rise of technical gadgets dumbing down our society even further. Oil helped create this modern lifestyle, and when it dries up, it will be the catalyst for the destuction of the life we know. Just like Miki Dora - he helped create something he hated. Don't you love the irony?