What surfing means to me . . .

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Originally Posted by spongedude

i live in aloha shirts and flipflops, even at work. i surf all year round and a vacation spot requires a break, even a crappy one. i only get up prior to 1030 am for this (and anyone who knows me is shocked when they find out i am on the beach at 8 am after a 1-1.5 hour drive). i've dragged many non-surfers into the water to learn, even just to sponge...my kids, friends, "friends," my kids' friends...to feel the pull, the pickup when the wave takes over and the ride begins (yeah, i'm that guy too, momma...but not your guy). i've had 2 cancerous lesions removed from my face and too many to count from my back. i hate being cold and i can't see for sh!t. i wear glasses and a hat and a wetsuit when everyone is in shorts... but i am out there. any time i can. i will never be great, but it's not about me being better than YOU...it's about me being better than i was, one wave, one fall, one small triumph at a time.

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Your last sentence gave me chill bumps......deep and well said my friend.....I feel you from the inside out. Mad respect!

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Originally Posted by surfbum

I could'nt have said it any better myself. I feel the same way when Im out in the water. I don't think you sound like anything but a surfer when you say this and anyone who is'nt a surfer just won't get it.

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Exactly...........It's purely mental therapy for me....Not just surfing but the ocean in general. I can sit and watch a flat sea for hours and be content.

surfing is the needle that pierces my brain as i paddle out zoned out on mushrooms and x tablets as i await the abyss of a newly formed line coming my way.it keeps me from drinking myself to death on days where i should be doing something creative.it keeps me from lashing out against society for forgetting about the lonesome souls we are who are seeking something better.society treats me like a bum,a stoner,and the ocean sends me to me knees,cartwheeling under the whitewater as i await my destiny the ocean chooses for me............yeah right lol...
i surf because im so damn good at it,and i love blowing the kooks out the water sprayin foam in their faces,as they watch me and ask for my autograph...yea surfing sucks,dont try it or youll end up as a statistic!

..late drop on a 8ft closeout and still come out..thats what surfing means to me!

Man, I though I was the only one. You're really not alone. Im a very deep thinker and when you think that deep you realize life is pointless, nothing truly matters. But then you get out on a good day with some friends, you have a total blast. And say man LIFES GOOD. When your in that water, your mind is only on the next set, next wave, that next section. YOUR NOT ALONE.


Peace,
Mateusz

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Originally Posted by jay314

The sounds you hear when you first drop in on the wave..

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This sums it all up.. Thats what surfing means to me. :)

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Originally Posted by yourdirtymomma

Your last sentence gave me chill bumps......deep and well said my friend.....I feel you from the inside out. Mad respect!

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thank you...

Spent a week off the grid surfing and everyone on SwellInfo took a nice pill! One year anniversary of me SURFING was yesterday. (First real wave caught by paddling, popping up and actually surfing down the line.) My goal last year was to not be a kook; this year's goal is to be the worst SURFER in CB. It would be a compliment if one of the groms said, "Yeah he's not very good, but he's out there SURFING." I love surfing because I can see the improvements; not every day, but often enough to be stoked to get out there again, even in crappy conditions. I had my first really painful wipe out last week, fell of the top of a wave and was harpooned in the thigh by my own 8' 6" RC. Some groms paddled over to me to make sure I was OK. Youth of today ain't all bad.

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Originally Posted by CBSCREWBY

Spent a week off the grid surfing and everyone on SwellInfo took a nice pill! One year anniversary of me SURFING was yesterday. (First real wave caught by paddling, popping up and actually surfing down the line.) My goal last year was to not be a kook; this year's goal is to be the worst SURFER in CB. It would be a compliment if one of the groms said, "Yeah he's not very good, but he's out there SURFING." I love surfing because I can see the improvements; not every day, but often enough to be stoked to get out there again, even in crappy conditions. I had my first really painful wipe out last week, fell of the top of a wave and was harpooned in the thigh by my own 8' 6" RC. Some groms paddled over to me to make sure I was OK. Youth of today ain't all bad.

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Yippie! Awesome! Hip, Hip Hurray! Congrads! I'm stoked for you.

PS On the nice pill....check the other threads :)

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Originally Posted by yourdirtymomma

Alright John Boy.....I'll bite.....here's my soul on the table.

Let's start by saying, I am an actual vaginal american.....I'm a girl.

In February 2011, I was sold a dream by a surfer boy. I don't know why he sold the dream to me, I was already giving him some......but anywho, I was told "I want to teach you to surf and sail." "Let's go kiteboarding" and things of that nature. Boy (Eddie) said, I'm leaving for 3 weeks, but when I get back we are going to do these things. Boy stopped calling.....matter of fact boy (who I was friends with for 4 years prior) never called again. It took weeks to confirm, but no he's not dead. I don't know why he chose to disappear WITHOUT A WORD and it broke my heart.....I didn't see it coming. But eff 'em.....I was sold a dream and I didn't need him to make it come true.

So March 18th, 2011 I was pushed into my first white water by another boy, whom will have my respect for life...and though I had no success I found myself stoked.....I wasn't expecting it. I spent the next 3 days in a row in the ocean, simply learning to survive. On the 3rd day, I tried to paddle out in what I now know to be awful conditions...at the time I was too green to know any better. As I tried my best to get out in 3-4 foot sea, at 5 seconds, with strong on shore winds something happened. My broken heart realized that Eddie didn't matter....actually I realized that nothing but what I was doing mattered. There was nothing but me, the waves, the wind, and the board. If I wanted, I had to do it. No one can give it to you, no one can take it from you. You can't buy it....you can't sell it. And all of a sudden I wanted it more than anything I had ever desired before. I raised my fist to the heavens and scream "FUK Eddie!" It was all LT Dan style. :)

I never made it out that day, actually I don't think I made it 40 feet off the shore that day, but something had changed.....inside I was different. I got in the water feeling broken by someone else, I got out more complete in myself than I had even been....I dare say I was reborn. This is a picture of that moment.....Attachment 5342

I've tried to explain it to others but words fail me.....

This is the best I have managed to describe it so far......A lot of people surf for sport, but I’m not good enough to call it sport. To me it’s more of a spiritual experience. Anything that involves one ass kicking after another interrupted by perfect moments of grace, feels more like a religious experience than a hobby or sport. But a 1000 wipe outs is worth it all in that spilt second when everything comes together; when somehow some way I did just the right thing at the right time and I find myself riding down the line...and though it’s just for a moment, for that moment nothing else matters.

And just an FYI, it's been a year and 3 months now.....I moved from inland to the beach, I have spent hundreds if not a thousand hours in the water since. I've wiped-out and eaten shyt thousands if not tens of thousand of time since.....but now I found myself dialed in. I've become more than a girl with a broken heart, more than just a surfer, I am now a more complete me.....and even if I wanted to, I could never go back.

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Wow, powerful stuff....Fuc Eddie is right, you are much better off obviously.