surfing is the needle that pierces my brain as i paddle out zoned out on mushrooms and x tablets as i await the abyss of a newly formed line coming my way.it keeps me from drinking myself to death on days where i should be doing something creative.it keeps me from lashing out against society for forgetting about the lonesome souls we are who are seeking something better.society treats me like a bum,a stoner,and the ocean sends me to me knees,cartwheeling under the whitewater as i await my destiny the ocean chooses for me............yeah right lol...
i surf because im so damn good at it,and i love blowing the kooks out the water sprayin foam in their faces,as they watch me and ask for my autograph...yea surfing sucks,dont try it or youll end up as a statistic!
..late drop on a 8ft closeout and still come out..thats what surfing means to me!
Man, I though I was the only one. You're really not alone. Im a very deep thinker and when you think that deep you realize life is pointless, nothing truly matters. But then you get out on a good day with some friends, you have a total blast. And say man LIFES GOOD. When your in that water, your mind is only on the next set, next wave, that next section. YOUR NOT ALONE.
Spent a week off the grid surfing and everyone on SwellInfo took a nice pill! One year anniversary of me SURFING was yesterday. (First real wave caught by paddling, popping up and actually surfing down the line.) My goal last year was to not be a kook; this year's goal is to be the worst SURFER in CB. It would be a compliment if one of the groms said, "Yeah he's not very good, but he's out there SURFING." I love surfing because I can see the improvements; not every day, but often enough to be stoked to get out there again, even in crappy conditions. I had my first really painful wipe out last week, fell of the top of a wave and was harpooned in the thigh by my own 8' 6" RC. Some groms paddled over to me to make sure I was OK. Youth of today ain't all bad.