Personally, I think this forum needed this thread... just when I was about to give up on how negative this forum has been, this fluffy stuff sucks me back in.
Surfing... makes me...
Go to work, to the gym, to my kids dance recital, to swim meets, save money, hug my wife, eat right, travel, wake at dawn so I can catch a wave, clear my head and reset to handle any stress that comes my way.
Dead without it. Mentally and physically.
Kum ba yah- http://www.scoutsongs.com/lyrics/kumbayah.html
What does surfing mean to me?
It means despite being unable to find a job the last two months with a college degree, studying those two months and spending $100+ that I don't have to fall short on the GRE exam to get into grad school this fall and getting a parking ticket in the process today, riding crap beater boards , and by the most of the world's standards being a failure for a 31 year old...that when its 2-4 foot this evening at least I still good at something in life and can throw buckets from time to time with the best of them. Sanity... the belief that the next set on the horizon of life will be better... and I will as always shred the gnar