ever have a serious 2wave holdown.u wipeout,get twirled around for a few seconds,and as soon as u come up for air,u get a huge lip 2ft from your head of u and it blows u back 30yards.in the middle of winter.but thats the nature of the beast.u cant surf and not expect to get worked a few times.sometimes its fun,sometimes its scary.but u get back out there.ever see that wipeout of andy irons at the pipemasters?he comes down in the lip of a 30foot face.whats he do,paddles back out.thats the mentality u need.i got worked a few years back at tres palmas,wasnt huge but had some 15-20ft faces out there,so id call it an 8ft swell.i was in the impact zone for a good 5 minutes,and a jetski came out of nowhere and saved me.maybe i wouldnt be here today if that ski hadnt been there,but its more reason to have pwcs around when your in decent sized surf.nowadays guys paddle 40ft faces,so a good 15footer isnt shyt to be compared to
i got worked really hard when this really heavy ground swell came in. since i'm a small little grom i cant paddle a fast as these big guys, so i paddled for a 6ft draining one and i thought i was in it so i stud up and noticed i had no chance of making the drop so i stepped off but when i did i was hung up on the lip (i didn't git to jump all the way down). so it was deep also and i went over the falls and i was getting tossed around more than usual and i went in to panic mode and then was under for like another couple of sec and thought i wasn't coming up. once the turbulence stopped i was pretty deep and i took like 4 big stokes to git up to the top and once i was up my head was ringing for a wile.
Sick of hearing about hurricane season the waves from passing lows are way better. The sandbars arent ready yet and then you have long period stuff gettin all weird on them. Once in a few years u get that magic one like irene and earl they were good shorter period stuff. Sandbars are lame untill the first few swells of the fall sift them out.
And some of my worst workings have been on semi shorebreak waves real hollow and in no water. OR ive had a healthy holddown at way outside jenks got me real spooked.