mitchell, this is dope. post more if you got em, doesnt have to be pipe
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mitchell, this is dope. post more if you got em, doesnt have to be pipe
back in the day we just used to hop into the channel with our blow up rafts, and let the rip pull us out to the breakers. nothin' like sittin out there with the wind at your back and a sweet swell comin in. things have changed alot since then, damn haole boys had to modernize everything and you only see the old timers on rafts now.
Thank you for posting those. The picture that has the boogie boarder just shows the maddening line up there. That doesn't look fun trying to negotiate through all that. Yeah the reward is there but way to easy to get a fin stuck in your forehead.
On the best days it's pretty much impossible to get a wave there unless you are a local, pro or otherwise known and respected ripper. You could paddle out and sit there for 3 hrs without getting a wave. People who think they can go there and just grab some waves have no idea. People who say its an easy wave to surf have never seen it live. It's a complete monster reef break that jacks up from a couple feet to 10 foot in the span of a few yards. Good luck.
I went to HI in April and it seriously changed my life. The land is awesome, the water is clear and the waves were so much fun. I surfed Lanis like everyday and I must say the world can learn respect from the Hawaiians, give respect to get respect. might not help with the book, but I couldn't resist. Kauai is by far the most beautiful and spiritual place on earth as well.
who reads books anymore