Originally Posted by
PhiloSurfer
First of all, I'm stoked that you're frothing over the whole surfing thing. Secondly, let me apologize for choosing your thread to place my late-night rant... which is this.
I am from VB, have left and lived in FL, CA, and HI and traveled all over the globe in search of waves. And, NEVER, EVER, have I been in a town in which EVERYONE so exaggerates the size of the waves. For days now, I've been hearing guys talk about the solid overhead surf in VB. BULL@#%T! For the duration of the swell, I've been surfing up and down our small stretch of coast, morning, noon, and night, and haven't seen hide nor hair of these consistent overheads that everyone is ranting about.
On my way home from surfing waist high lines in Sandbridge this evening, some stranger stopped at my car upon seeing my trunks and boards. "Fun waves tonight, eh?" he says. I said something like, "Sure, just wish it would get a bit bigger." To which he replies, "Yesterday was EPIC!" I say "Really, I must've missed that." (Fun, OK. EPIC, no way) He says, "It was solid 7 foot all day!" At this I just had to laugh and walk away.
So my advice to you, my frothing friend is to keep surfing, keep practicing, your lungs will come with time. But, pleeeeeassse do not join the throngs of VB kooks that are out there "shredding the gnar" on every walled-out waist high tropical swell, whilst regaling your friends with stories of double-overhead A-frame Hurricane surf.