used to have trouble catching waves on my shortboard... So I got a Jet Ski. I get on the wave about 500 yards out. I shred all the way to the beach. Then I zip through the line up at 60 mph and catch the 3rd wave in the set... Get the right equipment and you can catch as many waves as me!
For real though... The right equipment is what you like to ride. Unless it's an SUP. Those things suck. I kid
Holy Sh@t....what section of the rulebook is that in? Actually I agree with you dude. And I'll answer the Q...no he wasn't up and standing before he got close to anyone else
There are reputable schools out there that don't paddle out for you and don't push you into waves. Over the course of a week camp, I had an instructor who was like a drill sergeant. His words still ring in my head....paddle....we'd get there, then.....paddle....to another spot....sit up....paddle. Two three hour sessions a day. Because of it, (and continuing to paddle 2mi, three times a week) I can put in at dawn and surf straight through till 2. Who cares what boards we used.....big, sure. What's the problem? Drop in on a head high steep wave on a big board without pearling. Full step back and drop your knee then full step front. Read the bigboard bashing in the thread. Like it or not, it takes skill. Sure, a different skill than a short board, and a different take off point. I just don't get the "last- minute pop-up skate-down curl-up off-the-lip back-down one-last-turn, jump-up-and-down-on-the-board to get some speed!!!!dammit!!!!" Same thing every time. And someone in an earlier post said the longboarder just standing and riding in was "all played out." If that's the case, isn't surfing? (Paddle out, ride in, repeat). Regardless, a smooth ride is where it's at for me and the hyperdance is where it is for others....and that's totally cool. why shouldn't it be? A reputable school also teaches etiquette, and respect for the ocean (don't turn your back). Personally, anyone who starts surfing without some kind of intensive coaching is selling themselves, and those they share the waves with short. I've been to several weeks of instruction and afterward have logged hundreds and hundreds of hours surfing, and just recently began to consider myself a surfer.
As far as "sitting waaaay outside"...works for me when the day is right. Last week of July, 3-4' swell. Really nice day, fairly crowded. Every five minutes or so one larger wave would peak farther out, lasted that way for about an hour, and I was the only one there. The rest broke in another 15 yards. This thing would come like clockwork and everyone would start paddling out while I was already up. Had that peak to myself every time. Sometimes, it just works.
The guy with no wax or leash. That's just a shame. Aloha for looking out for him.
wow, i wish the worst thing that has ever happened to me was getting upset bc someone is riding a different board than i am
There's know solution to this issue...even the longboarders are *****ing about the unfair advantage the SUP's have.
Take the right board out for the conditions and let the chips fall where they may...btw, if you live and surf late into
life a crutch will become a neccesity. When you're young you never believe you'll get old but it will happen, trust me.
sometimes I also do this. You know why? Because I don't owe you anything. If you want a set wave, paddle out where the big boys sit. Shoulder hopping pu55ies. I never wear a leash on the log either, I don't even own one for it. S-T-R-E-T-C-H and I are going to F**k you up if you drop in so don't even be tempted. Pura Vida
I sat waaaaaay outside on my longboard this past sunday... a real paddle battle was taking place on the inside...again. lol.