Cool this all sounds like good wisdom so far...
Yeah I've been noticing that when the swells aren't great.
I find funshapes to be to be "not fun" unless I'm on a solid sized wave.
I drive 20-25min after work or weekends to a break that is, well, kinda moody, but can be pretty good at times, crappy a lot too. I wish I lived in HI. I stopped going for whitewash when I ditched the foamie. Mostly surfing knee to chest high waves that break pretty slowly.
you surf 3-5x a week?!where the hell do u live,hawaii??if u surf that much,going to a smaller board should be no problem!maybe the issue is your surfing 1 ft whitewash that u can only surf on a longboard.have u surfed any real waves this year,like atleast over 4 ft
Yes I'll keep doing that. Sometimes if there's nothing breaking, I'll just paddle around for exercise.
Keep surfing as often as you can regardless of whether others say the conditions are good. Strong onshore winds, mushy ankle to knee high junk waves, etc., they all will help you improve your surfing.
Last Saturday, I put on a 3/2 full wetsuit for the first time in like 6 months, (normally go either shorts or shorts+rashguard) and it def constricted my paddling when fully extending the arms. I thought it was fitted properly...maybe I'm just not hiking it up far enough (but there certainly isn't really any slack when i do hike it up)? or is that just the nature of wetsuits? I'm wondering if I can maybe ditch that one for an overalls-style suit (no arms)? I'm in SoCal but have a solid tolerance to cold so maybe I could get away with that in winter?
Transitioning to a smaller board and winter wetsuit at the same time is definitely going to slow down your paddling.
I got the longboard first and once I started to feel some level mastery went for the shortboard
OK...maybe I'll look for some beater longboard for ~100 to fix up... for small days and so I can teach my GF to surf.
A longboard really is a solid addition to anyones quiver in my opinion. I started on a shortboard, but soon after I started picked up an old 60's longboard at a yard sale and had a ton of fun on that thing.
From the rest of it, sounds like I should go for a 6'0" w/ full(ish) nose shortboard and decent thickness, and just be persistent learning it.