Yeah I figured this was a dumb idea lol. I'll just skip hitting the beach Sunday. Wait for the swell to slow down then try shortboarding
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Yeah I figured this was a dumb idea lol. I'll just skip hitting the beach Sunday. Wait for the swell to slow down then try shortboarding
Everything ZaGaffer said is spot on...
One other thing to add is that with a shorter board, paddling becomes twice as hard, you really have to stroke a lot harder to move with less foam under you, it's an s-load easier to duck dive, though. I admit, I wouldn't have taken the advice either, I went out after less than a year in big swells I wasn't prepared for, got rocked by a big set, spent time with my head and shoulder pinned to the bottom of the ocean 200 yards offshore, but it humbled me and I think, in the long-run has progressed my surfing, but i know my limits.
And if you do go out, look out for **** in the water, especially during these type of storms, i remember during Ernesto I was paddling and nailed my shin on something, looked to see what it was and damn if it wasn't a 3' section of telephone pole...goddamn, if that thing went over the falls and hit somebody, they woulda needed bodybags that day.
yea man, it would not be wise to go out on a 10ft.@14sec. swell, always know your limits, it will be dangerous even for old dogs like myself..wait until wednesday it will be a lot better out...be safe and have fun
Your dumb dont start surfboarding you should flounder around in the shore brake and get ****ed up :)
you don't sound like a kook at all... You sound like you're stoked for waves. That's a good thing. You will be hoping for waves for teh rest of your life. And you will surf plenty of hurricanes... When you feel you're ready, surf.. You will know when it looks like too much for you..
You do want to push yourself to surf bigger, better waves. Just don't go for to much too fast. Good luck!
Dumb dumb!!!! :)
U'r no kook bud. U'r just gettin started.
“The only difference between you and me is time in the water and commitment”.
Taj Burrow
I would definitely still head to the beach if the waves are firing! even if you dont paddle out it would be great to watch all the more experienced guys ripping, might be able to learn a thing or two just from watching ... but like everyone else said if you are not comfortable dont go. Take a camera and enjoy the spectacle that is mother nature!
"If you’re gonna be dumb you better be tough."
LOL. love that quote from zaGaffer and some solid advice too