what motivates me is the sheer love for it. in VB, waiting for waves (i mean any bump, not just good ones) is 3/4 of the battle especially when you are a broke college kid with a beater of a car who can't really travel farther than the OBX. i also check my spot everyday (i live at the beach so i just bike). However, going to class/work prevent me from going but i think that also keeps me motivated because i know that dawn patrol and maybe a before dark session is the reward. Thank god i am a morning person. Gaff, i can understand where you are coming from because you guys have something rideable (EC standards here again) almost all year and you have the option to pick and choose spots that work well. over here, it can get unrideable for a month at a time. **** that summer two years ago, it was terrrrrrrrrible
Anyway, I'm like all of you, I do it 'cause I love it. 'Cause there's nothing else like it. Because for 10 seconds, I'm standing on top of the world. And, I'll keep doing it until I can't.
I think a lot of little things are where the magic and motivation comes from...
Sitting with a friend or two in the lineup watching them get a solid wave, and then hearing them yell at you when a bomb comes your way.
My work overlooks the Delaware Bay it sometimes the bay is just silvery sheet glass and i picture the ocean (15 minutes away) being waist high and as glassy as the bay (it rarely is) and just cant stand it. That is some serious motivation, even though theres usually more texture on the ocean.
Tonight...just finished surfing until it was too dark to see much of anything...small, clean lines and warm out even after dark. Just two of us out for the last hour of light...perfect little rights sliding on the mini simmons...with 4 mm. of rubber on it might as well have been July. I like the way surfing can kind of transport you to another time and place under certain conditions and it felt like a summer evening, except there there were two of us out instead of 35!
The inconsistency of the east coast is a good motivator...I dont care what time of year it is, your next decent surf session could be three weeks away. It happens and knowing it happens makes scoring fun waves a precious thing.
The older you get the harder it is to stay motivated, at least if you were a surfer for the wrong reasons. I would say at least 50 percent of people who surfed in their teens drop out in their twenties. Of the 50% left 25 percent drop out by age 35. Of the final 25%, 20 percent of those give up winter surfing and become fair weather summer surfers by their mid 40's. The real hardcore are the 5 percent that stick it out into later years winter and all. For me I'm 47 and surf because its what I always did and I can't image not doing it. I rarely miss a day although last week was probably the closest I have ever come to lacking motivation. Cold, north angle swell, forced to surf backside and knowone to surf with pushed me too far, lol.
Knowing there are better waves coming, wanting to get better every session. Also its just good exercise and i hate the gym and being indoors.
Your not ALWAYS ready to charge, anything I don't care what it is. Down time should be enjoyed.Up here when conditions are right I am always ready to surf.I do so much else in between including household stuff that motivation to surf is never a problem. So zaGaffer no offense but San Diego has so much surf all the time but nothing else. Enjoy when you blow off going unless your training to compete in some contest. All I did Living in the Valley is skimboard, go to the gym, and roll down to TJ for some fun. Southern California is boring. The beach is the only redeeming quality.
Tomorrow I snowboard with no lift lines then surf when that pops up later this week I hope. I can still golf if I want as well with no tee time wait. 3 days of 50 degrees here. Im out in my yard with no nosey peeping tom neighbors either.In Vacationland motivation is easy.
Great question, but to be honest im not really sure. I'd say something deep occurs while im surfing, probably unannounced to me. theres all the obvious reasons i suppose... waves, adrenaline, the whole 'spiritual" aspect, or just socialization with peers who you can connect with. But i think im going to have to nab some wisdom from AI here and just say "I surf because I'm always a better person when i come in".