Being a better surfer motivates me. My friends do to. I run with some bad asses. So more sessions more waves. On my way to Kelly Slaterdome lol surfing is my zen I started after my dad died. I needed an outlet or I was going to drink myself to death.
Haha word man.... You'll always be stoked to get out there, waves will always be looking fun! And what motivates me is the stoke I get from that sickk barrel, slashing the lip or even just getting f**king worked on a close out... I'm always on a search to find the stoke again... Could be on the next wave or in 100 waves, but you won't find it unless you're out there.
Originally Posted by cresto4
got some time on ur hands huh
Self destructive and an addictive personality... bad combo... I've tried every which way to do it... I can't help it...It's me...if some is good... a whole lot is better...cigs...drugs...alcohol...worse...
Surfing and running have proven to be healthy outlets for me...I can go all out and its generally good for me ('cept when I occasionally take it too far)... some how I'm the opposite of most...the desire only gets greater with age... my situation the last 4 years or so has allowed me to surf a lot to leave the bad stuff behind... no drugs...waking up in strange places... 25lbs of unnecessary weight...need to be ready for that 2,3,4,5, or more hour session when the waves come up...obsessed