mentioned it before in other threads but you cant go wrong with captain zero. probably my favorite "surf" book
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mentioned it before in other threads but you cant go wrong with captain zero. probably my favorite "surf" book
If you are interested in HI surfing: "Fierce Heart: The Story of Makaha and the Soul of Hawaiian Surfing"
Books by Kem Nunn are good reads.
Wasn't this exact same topic discussed in a thread last week?
I suppose another thread about good books isn't a bad thing. My most recent surf related read was The Wave by Susan Casey. Great book.
Saltwater Buddha & West of Jesus are real good.
these books are good... but in the grand scale of books, they aren't. Grab some Hemingway, man. Start with The Old Man and the Sea. It's short, set in / near the ocean, and will make you want to read everything he has ever written.