u know what i do when i hear lip from some kook claimin to be a local?i go feel the hood of his car and determine that u a.drove from your house up the block, or b.drove down the gsp for an hour til u reach my spot.localism is corny.surfers aren't tough,they think they are but theyr not.so many times i felt like smashing some kooks windows but dont need my ass to go to jail over some bs.nobody owns the ocean,no matter where your from.yes u should always be nice and follow etiquette,but so many times i see some tough guy come walkin up the beach like hes better than slater,paddle out,get cleaned up,not even make it out.that doomsday swell i was in ** and this kook starts talkin shyt over nothing.about a half hour later,this kook got pulled out by a state trooper helicopter.needless to say,i havnt seen his face or his truck at my spot these past few swells.theres no need for that tough guy image,im better than u blah blah blah.i surf for fun.iv been surfin for damn near 10 years and havnt got more than 5 pics of myself in the water.nowadays some kooks go out for an hour and drop a new webclip like theyr the next big thing.
i lold at zeke lau talkin about its not a matter of if hell win a word title,but when.i think zeke is a great surfer,but il put a grand down he doesnt win one contest on the wct.guys like jj florence havnt even won a title,gabriel medina.i know a lot of u hate on him,but he is the best aerialist in the world right now.sure albee and meola bust 720s and backflips,etc..but what u dont see is how many trys it took them to land it.medina does an air in a contest and lands it.thats the difference.so plz guys stop makin gopros and vids on the internet for the world to see.we dont want to see u fail.do something because u like it,not because u think your cooler
Well, I'm sitting here at work and the front just passed. Looking out the window the skies have cleared, and looking at the cams it's shoulder high with some bigger peaks and cleaning up.
I've just about had enough of work right now.