If rockaway is know for anything in surfing its arm burn. Last weekend saturn swell I watched as brooklyn kooked hipsters just strolledup to the shoreline, jumped in and started paddling getting swepped from jetty to jetty, duck dive after duck dive and sometimes making out after 8 to 10minutes of paddling.... when I finally decided to headout I literally stood in the shorebreak for 8 or 10 minutes when the window opened. took me 2 minutes to make the paddle out, without taking one on the head....
yesterday's paddle was similar. just need to wait for the window.... the biggest issue is how far out the sandbar is now.
Yesterday was awesome!! :D Let's not forget these days of "waves of consequence" cuz once summer comes it'll be 50 guys scratching for waist high dribblers.
In monmouth county where I surfed the paddle out looked like hell from the beach. It was surprisingly easy with the multitude of rips from the bomb sets overloading the beach and releasing back out to sea.
To be honest, I find the whole winter surfing a humbling experience. This is the first year in ages that I have surfed consistently through the winter. The 5ml, hood, boots and gloves, makes for a totally different experience. It makes catching that one that lines up that much more rewarding. Feel like I'm paying my dues all over again. A great way to keep the ego in check.
Surfing in Jersey for 30 yrs and couldn't make the paddle out only 2 times that I can remember, one was a hurricane swell when I was like 15, a humbling every grom should experience... The other was after a Nor’easter about 10 yrs ago, I was sick at the time and shouldn’t even have attempted it but I can still picture the barreling lefts that day...a day or two after this I was admitted to the hospital, so I don't take this one too hard. Which brings me to the afternoon of Feb 27…post storm well OH surf in Monmouth county, was able to paddle out hugging the jetty but just past the jetty with the safety of the lineup in sight I inevitably had to take a couple on the head, and really after the 1st one the show was over – within a minute you were 100 yds down the beach and now just 20yds from shore getting pounded...so whitewater belly ride/walk of shame back to the jetty to try again, and again…with no better results. As I’m catching my breath on the beach after the 3rd attempt, commiserating with a few others attempting the same, and considering packing it in, a boogie boarder jumps in and threads the needle right into the lineup – f***er! At which point I tell myself that I will not be denied. And I did get out on my 4th attempt. Caught 2 bombs, the second of which brought me too far inside to shoot back out, so did the whitewater belly ride/walk of glory back to the car.
Couldn't make the paddle out only 2 times that I can remember…