pulling out is safer and no one gets pregnant
Punch through the back MFitz
article on this topic
If its overhead and powerful I will ride straight toward the beach in front of the wave and jump off my board feet first then tuck into a ball.
If its under head high or so I will just punch through the back of the wave...IF you try this when its really heavy you will get sucked back into the wave and go over the falls..NOT FUN!
I have heard pros say the safest place is inside the barrel. Sometimes you pop right out the back and miss the impact of the lip. You never want to dive in front of your board.
i learned about the hawiian dive from a similar thread last year on this site...all you do is bottum turn as sharp as you can, using the momentum to dive through the face of the wave. if you do it with out speed, you might have to do a stroke or two so the passing wave doesnt catch you by the feet and suck you back down...it's a safe and effective move, and i get better at it everytime i do it.... if i can find the old thread ill post it, because someone shared some nice example videos of Kelly doing it.