surfing is ****ing WHACK
Time stops on the drop, surreal being part of the process down the line, time and surroundings come back in focus coming over the lip and paddling back for the promise the next wave brings.
Last couple of days have been fun... Work is so much better when you score in the AM... Unless it's firing. Then the day drags waiting to get back out. Especially in the fall. When we get solid surf with offshores all day. Warm water. Warm air.
I'm seriously jonesing for some warmer (relative to my region) water. I can't remember the last time we have been pushing into May with sub-65 degree water--dis shizzz is insane!
Surfed in a comp this past weekend in CB... should have blown the comp and gone up to WB since the swell was way too South for CB. The comp was fun anyway, first one I have done in something like 17 years, but definitely not the best surf (thigh-high at best chop) for showcasing the surfing ability of a 34 year old. Maybe next time?
Didn't see dlroun down there in his orange wetsuit and white helmet catching all the waves and/or hanging on the beach with a heady brew like he said he might be doing... but the weather was complete crap and I definitely wouldn't have been hanging on the beach if I didn't have to, so I can't blame him.
Been too busy with work this week to make it out, sucks 'cause it's looked fairly fun at times.
New York surfers, would it be alright to not where a hood this weekend, its right at that weird transition temperature?
I haven't worn a hood for the last week and was fine... I actually saw a kid in a 3/2 with no boots or gloves, but he looked like he was going to die!
Wore a 4/3, 5 mil boots , 3 mil gloves and was fine
It's all about having the balls to drop in on waves bigger than houses showing off for the Hindus in bikinis.
I miss it so. hurry up global warming. Ive been doing my part by burning tires in the back yard. but noooooooooooooooooooooooooo!
Honeys not Hindus...this 500$ iPhone keeps autocorrections