I've had my share, I'm not Chuck Norris.
Why don't the top big wave surfers on Earth ride bid wood boards in giant surf? They are always looking to better their equipment.
Though I can't see all the trash talk from Roy, I have to comment based on the replies above. There has never been a day, when we actually had surf and I could make it out, that I couldn't catch and ride a wave. Equipment is rarely the issue there. The wrong equipment just lessens the quality of the ride. There have been days where I couldn't get out to try, which was due to current and duration. In that case, a long wooden board would def be the wrong equipment.
This is coming from a crappy surfer, as I am still learning.
Roy, has WaveJet contacted you about hollowing out part of your logs and putting in some horsepower?
When waveriding Mass=Horsepower.
I don't like Wavejet, and no they haven't.