Thanks to everyone I have not thanked individually here. A lot of good advice was added, thank you :) A big factor is that I am near fifty years old, so I won't risk killing my wifes only means of income by dying trying to be a hardcore winter rider at any point forward. I simply want to get out on the board when I am able, and make that session count; Whether it be a good paddle and out to the line up regularly, to popping up and staying on the board til I choose to fall off. I am not looking to be some bucket throwing amateur, nor a hang five demonstrator.
I purely want to conquer what I only need to conquer, not do what are expectations of others that surf harder.
p.s. I always believed the outlet of surfing and pot smoking made people mellow and laid back and cool to others. I still believe it, so I must call BS on the most aggressive posters that can only condemn and insult me visciously at times. I do not believe you few really surf more than the web! POW! From Gruvi, biotches!
Don't do this. Nothing is more annoying. It is a terrible habit and dangerous to others. Learn how to kick out. If you can't do that, flop your butt down on it and turn. At the end of the ride your board should be pointed back towards the line up and your hair should still be dry. At least for the first couple of waves. You should maintain control of your surfboard at all times. There was a time before leashes.
"I always believed the outlet of surfing and pot smoking made people mellow and laid back and cool to others."
Surf Rage, google it.
Damn, gruvi is a real person!?!