Yeah, I hit up that spot just to the north yesterday early morning, ended up staying in the water till 2:30, headed out and went and ate crabs and drank some brews, woke up, she made me breakfast...and made my way down for the afternoon...and boy, what an afternoon it was...def going to sleep like a baby tonight.
Considering the dominant swell was 3.9 feet west at 5 seconds.(west swells don't hit town beach) I really have a hard time believing that. You drove like 3 hours for this today? Seriously? I also watched the cam and it was barely knee high mostly just slamming on the beach with maybe a thigh high set once in a blue moon. The cam also has a live streaming feed.
I guess chest high is the swellinfo equivalent of knee high. Sort of like the opposite of the Hawaiian scale.
Did the swell just pop up for like an hour or two and you got really lucky?
Well I'm glad you had fun anyway!
3 sessions, morning afternoon and dinner time. nun great but all fun! had to break out the l.b. for the later sesh.
Yeah man .... central LI was super fun yesterday. I was chillin because I thought it was gonna be 1-2ft mush. My cuz called me from RM and told me it was firing on the waist-chest range with nice offshores. I jumped at the chance being starved for over a week. Had to get used to the SB as all I've been riding in the LB the last 2 months. Was nice to get a wave with a littly power.
Super fun .... just goes to show you ... the best surf report is the one that comes from actually going to the beach and seeing for yourself !
Exactly! Just got back from a dawn patrol session, not as good as yesterday, I actually almost didn't paddle out. It was surprisingly fun though I got some good little thigh high waves. I told myself I'd only stay out for an hour since it didn't look to good, I ended staying in for 3. There were a few guys on the beach who weren't going to paddle out til they saw me catch a few then they all got in and had some fun to. If your going to wait for the cam to look good or for a good report (swell info has today as red all day) your going to miss out on allot of fun. I'm the type to surf anything that's rideable, I have fun on knee high days, but I'm pumped to have gotten something a little bigger these past 2 days.