Case and point: I was walking by a fellow surfer this morning who was walking back to the parking lot with his dog. I asked him, "How is it?" He said, "It's small" and then noting the 9' SUP I was toting, "It's your kind of day." He apparently had no intention of getting in, at least at that juncture. To which I smiled and kept walking to the beach.
I paddle out and it is clean and waist+, maybe chest. I guess it didn't look that big from the shore?? And eventually the line up is filled w/ guys on all sorts of craft, SUPs, LBs, SBs, all scoring. I was a good fun sesh.
So sometimes you just need to get wet. You never know unless you go.
Always looks smaller when you're on shore then magically gets bigger once you get in... aways happens. ALYWAYS
You know, unless it's breaking three feet from the sand.
And in beachbreak hell, what don't look all that good this minute, can come together thirty minutes later. I'm not talking a jump in swell, I'm talking aboot ever-changing beachbreak conditions......peak dies here, a peak rises there.........a sectioning mess turns into a mini Rye on the Rocks with a shift in tides..........Swell size, swell direction, sandbars, tides, winds........man you can't make this sh!t a science. It's wayyyy too unpredictable with too many variances.......
Spicoli: How was Cullyfornia?
TREV: Viva la revolucion. Che Guvara and all. Where you been, Trev? Tell me what's going on.........
Ya know what it is that I be sayin' ?
"Wish I was ocean size.
They can not move you.
No one tries"