you can score a custom for way less than a name brand board of the racks. local shapers i have used:
Ricky Carroll is the man and master shaper! He just won a bunch of awards at the surf expo for shaping!
Wopwop just go talk to Ricky tell him what you would like, give him a little background info besides just height and weight. How long have you surfed? How well do you surf? Where do you typically surf.... etc....
Be honest with the man because he can shape you a perfect ride with the info you provide him.
Big guy short boards include Rusty Big Cat, Sharpeye Blowfish, WRV Nugget . . . They need a little bit of punch in the wave, but you get that with jersey beach breaks. Dave Hamilton makes a great board with rocker, speed and paddle-ability, surfed that at Squan the Friday before the Belmar pro in chest high surf. I think he calls it a Vector. But if you are going over the falls a lot I might be thinking technique over board. Not that some rocker doesn't help, but, just sayin'. Are you in position? And paddling fast enough? Not knocking, just asking.
Be careful, what options you choose with this or another similar model of Ricky Carroll's, that's all. Don't
get it 2 7/8" thick - you only need about 2 5/8" - 2 3/4" thick. I am 196 lbs. and I surf boards 2 5/8" thick
without any problems (6'10" long). You need a little more paddle but not a huge amount more. You could
also order a fish but I'm just assuming for now, what you would order in a shortboard. You need about
40 - 50 litres in volume. I'm not sure where in that range. 37 litres is a little too drastic a drop for you.
I surf boards that are between 30 and 37 litres mostly.
I suspect that you are more towards the 50 litre+ range of volume - I just don't want to see you on
a board that has an increase in thickness and a huge outline. If they take a little out of the nose and
tail in outline, and a little out of the thickness, you should be ok.
Listen to Agabinet - if you go over the falls, then the head-high Jersey surf is hard to catch due
to steepness. I personally need MORE paddle when I surf Ocean City, New Jersey's jetty breaks - they
are steep. For this, you need a nice custom-sized/perhaps even custom-shaped board. This is
a big decision - good luck and ask questions.
I think what will help, as it has in the past, is to ask one of the experienced regulars I know to watch and critique what I'm doing. Practicing the wrong thing over and over again without any feedback only reinforces the problem.
Contact B Wynn. Great shaper, cool guy. Talk to him about what you like in a board etc, he can make it. Support your local shaper.