Yeah, yesterday was good. I even had a little National Geographic moment yesterday as I waited for the last wave. Out of the corner of my eye I was called to attention and saw some commotion aboot 30 yards south. I saw a bunch of splashing and it appeared that something was chasing something else. I mean, water was being kicked up 3-4 feet above the surface.
That seal was out there again. Every frickin time, which I find really strange. Was it him giving chase to something? I don't know. You guys who don't like the crowds of North Jersey(Eww Yuck) probably wouldn't like being solo all winter either. OMG, it gets so creepy.
School kid: Man, you don't miss waves to study. Can't you fit in an hour or two surf and still study? You should keep up on your school work during the semester so you don't have to cram the day before. Don't worry aboot education, just watch Jeopardy in the evenings and you'll learn everything you need to know.
Can't your daddy get you into Yale? My daddy only was able to get me into Dartmouth which I always found appalling. I have never forgiven him for that.
Oh I'm not being snarky here, so don't naybody get upset, but the term "epic" gets thrown around way too much. Epic means, like, once in a decade......like, the best surf in a decade.
Every swell that's over four foot now gets called "epic."
And that wave pictured is pushing 6 foot.
Paddington!!! so did you see the seal after the spashing or before??? could it have been... I mean is there sharks (opps, I said it) around here?? I was surfing kinda solo yesterday (some guys at the next jetty down), and had the thought... then looked down in the water, saw some shadows, then starting thinking again... then a set came... drop in, get barreled... paddle back out then wait some more time...
anyways- you know it bro!
(sorry pjb- I couldn't resist...)
yesterday was fun. i was three beers and 4 tacos in when i paddled out. all my blood supply was near my gut digesting food and sucking up alcohol, so i instantly felt cold when my face hit the water. plus, it was the first time testing out my new/used board (thanks craigslist!). that being said, i took 3 right on the head right off the bat because i was half buzzed and feeling cocky. after the instant humbling/sobering, i then started to catch a few fun ones and tried to figure the board out. lots of foam under the chest, drawn out pintail, single-fin. so much fun. could use a bit more rocker for days like yesterday. can't wait to try it out again.
A couple good ones... but a bunch of poundings up here once the tide hit low. Totally dredging, heaving barrels. Saw one guy get like a 5 second tuberide... and wished it was me!
Should have went to jersey, it was worthless down here.
PB&J is getting sharky
45 degree air, solid swell, west wind all day, in the middle of January. Does that happen very often?