And outside of the wave, the town of Puerto Veijo is insane!!
Yeah its quite a place! It literally changed my life. haha as retarded as that sounds.
You watch way too much surf porn.
8-10 feet this winter, quite euphoric..although we don't know what was more intense- catching the waves themselves or the paddle out in the middle of such large swells :eek: PS- 17 feet, nice!
had some that had to be over ten foot
they were slapping the bottom of the piers in seaside
my friends had some sweet rides
i caught like 4 and the last one worked me hard
it was fun stuff tho
However big Noel and Ernesto were.
Psh. I suck too much at surfing to paddle out when its big. I'll paddle into 5 footers on my fun board and get worked. On the other hand, I've dropped in on my stomach (no board, body surfin oh yeah) on 8+ footers. Its a sick time when you actually don't get worked in a barrel and make it out.
biggest wave i've ever surfed was the 1st saturday of September during Ernesto (the really windy sloppy victory at sea day) and i went out next to a jetty with some of my friends. i was i think 14 and i caught one wave that was like triple overhead on me, and probably couple feet overhead on most people(i was really short then). well i remember it had a nice face but i was too afraid to do a turn so i just went straight. well that was one to remember, ha..actually i caught some bombs during that saturday of noel, and that was heaving clean barrels not victory at sea, those were the biggest clean waves i've surfed, it think.....