SoCal score report for Doomsweek swell (surf-related)
Yeah brahs, enough of the Ricky Lake Show on SI. We've got serious stoke out here in the 949. For days. Swell for days braddahs! I could not have scored harder on dates to be out here.
Looks like we've got 3 pulses coming through all from WNW-W 270-290 over the next 4-5 days. Hit Trestles for 2.5 hours late morning and it was primo. 20s period is kind of weird but these waves were more than forgiving and easy to get in. Spicoli got shacked for the first time on a left. Quick takeoff and drop and knew right away it was a shorter wave so I got after it. Set up for a wide carve back down the line then set a rail before the wave bent and the face said whappppp right to my face. Charged it hard brahs. Arguably Spicoli's best ride ever and I got temporarily sponsored with Pacific Ocean housing. Feels good to have a roof over your head even if it's short-lasting.
Making a point to have my turns be more full body rather than generate mostly from hips/legs on the Carver. Worked out well with leading more from head/shoulders/arms today. S-turns baby. Gotta say that repping out the pop-up while tired at the end of the gym workout this week is a huge plus. Pops are on point. I'm charging every peak in sight and putting myself I'm good spots.
Quick bite then back out for the PM sesh at one of the local breaks. Do groms even go to school here? Kids on the beach everywhere and with their parents, too. Word is that Santa Cruz and north are really going off but my crew is deep down here so I'll take these dope conditions no prob. Gaffer, I waited for you at Middles for hours today and you never showed. Something must've come up, it's all good. I really wanted to see you dial in that SUP. Down for a couple dozen fish tacos? I'm buying.
Anyone else out here scoring?
To the rest back in the EC - lighten up and hit the break tomorrow. Last I saw we were getting some weather.
Is this thread about SURFING enough braddahs? Best part of the day by far even more than my primordial shack was eating it hard on the reef mad times. Kelp and barnacles make a good late morning snack!