why do YOU surf? top ten for me…..
1) if exercise was a pill everybody would be taking it.
2) i have a lot of time/money/effort sunk into it.
3) i buy into the notion of 'life aspirin.'
4) i have a fantasy that i actually AM kelly slater.
5) i don't like phonys and there seem to be less of them out surfing.
6) i respect the ocean; as such (so far) i can play in it without repercussions others would
7) although i'm hardly underweight it seems to have made me 'less fat.'
8) it encouraged me to travel as such my horizons have broadened.
9) it seems to be easier to make true friends w/surfer types than with general public.
10) it is fun that does not leave a footprint.