I feel like this is 1) the tenth thread of its type in the last year, and 2) something I've voluntarily digressed on countless times here. But it's a great affirmation so I'll do it again.
I charge waves because it makes me feel more closely knit with the natural world than most anything else. I also charge waves because it's so damn hard and I'm still so piss poor that each day I go HAM with a smile I'm so much better after for it even though I've still got so, so far to go in the grand scheme. Not often can we see and feel our daily progress in our endeavors. I feel that's always on the table when I hit the water - I can clearly observe the outcomes of immersing myself in the process that day. Lastly, I charge waves in anticipation for the times I actually am able to "surf" waves. As in, execute well enough that I'm actually resembling a moderately acceptable level of proficiency in the act.
It's been some of, if not the best therapy I've ever had on a day to day basis in my entire life. I've met some awesome people that I genuinely get to be friends with rather quickly and it's taking me to many beautiful parts of the world I've yet to see. It also is invaluable to us for the sheer fact of keeping us in check with the fragility of life in that one rip or rogue wave can put us and those around us in jeopardy.
Surfing tosses to the side all the crap in society and this life that keeps us from feeling truly alive.