If you look at a good sandbar working like puerto escondido or ocean beach in san fran with a powerful groundwell in the water then you can see how far out the waves are breaking. While much of nj steep beaches can handle an 8-10 second local swell great, give it a more powerful swell and it's no good.
Here's a video of san fran's sandbar is a SERIOUS MACKING swell.
wow, I was owned? glad you post a lot, you really add a lot of value to the conversation with your internet surf knowledge and great attitude, keep it up, you are good for a larf
and most beachies that are worth a sh!t have waves that
1) have periods longer than 10 seconds
2) break in shallow enough water to make tubes
and obviously bigger waves break in deeper water
the steeper the beach and the shorter the shelf, the more powerful the wave, long shelf and sloping beach, = burgery crap
please go surf for real instead of making stuff up and positing it as fact
Long shelf is the worst? wtf are you talking about? If that was the case, shore pound spots would break the best in hurricane swells since they have the sharpest drop off and shortest sand bar.
ocean beach is a trip,definitly on my to surf b4 I die list.some paddleouts there can take up to 45 minutes,their rips will drag u a mile out.mike parsons broke his neck that swell.
I wasn't speaking about sandbars and groundswells,i was sayin a sandbar that goes from shallow to deep makes a thick tube,and a gentle slope is mushy waves.in nj,the short period swells work the best,that's why winter is the time of the season
Great thread buoys. SI admin brah is a well of quality info that is a great resource for us (as is the experience of many here) and his academic background is great for that. I'm sure he's talking this stuff with dudes in the know all day long too so the knowledge adds up.
MIS-13, I know what you're saying about the BB's not being able to handle much long period. On the Jan 3 swell we had DOH+ barrells galore and they were surprisingly peeling although you could not get through the soup and if you did, the barrell had shifted and you were now getting disciplined by other gnarl.
Any more specifics on this topic braddahs? My questions from here are:
- what factors make certain BBs actually work ok in long period?
- clearly optimal swell angle and wind direction are critical to a break's quality on a given day, but does period length magnify this need for optimal angles or does it buffer a lack of? With my recent time in the PNW and more coming up, it's been surprising to me to see how highly rated Seaside and other top breaks are on days where there's less than break-specific ideal conditions during longer period yet still great ratings
- under what conditions is a BB the best, and when is it least shifty?
To the right of the main jetty at Westport (away from the Cove, right as in how we'd take a right wave facing beach) the other day looked similarly soupy. Winter BB's bro, gnarl gnarl gnarl. That goes for EC too.
I surfed OB in November on an day the bouy was reading 6-8 ft at average period for there (around 16 seconds). It was insanely underwhelming, fat and not really breaking top to bottom. It would shoal outside and lose it's energy, you were surfing reform that was reminiscent of assateage on a decent groundswell.
I get why it breaks like it does on the big days, the lineup shifts outside, and it takes that much energy to get it breaking top to bottom. I've surfed moss and blacks each on much smaller swells and they were much much better. OB is a wave I have no interest in ever surfing again.