Got in one last day in **n**n* before shipping back to the 'states. 2.4 meters hot, sunny, and glassy. Beautiful.
Gonna miss some epic typhoon swell, but it looks like I'll be able to pick up some Hurricane surf on the other side of the pac. 6ft and 17 seconds--nice! Only problem is, my typical restricted access spot is gonna be closed. So I'll have to share the stoke with a billion of my bestest buddies at one of the summer breaks.
Oh well, all-in-all, still a good problem to have.
Still flat in the gulf, urrrrg.
I found this pic the other day.i remember the swell,aug 17th 2011 when a bunch of tornados reeked havoc across the southeast and moved offshore bringing this swell.i didn't surf this swell,and at the time I was working in brick, and montoloking and bayhead was a 5 minute drive and I decided to go home instead of hitting the beach.I have never personally eyewitnessed this epicness in nj with all my yrs of surfing,closest iv been in was doomsday but it wasn't this size,a little smaller.that is the frustration of my surfing,blowing off days like this that come around once a decade
Been dealing with a bad left knee for the past 6 months. Really puts a damper on your surfing when it hurts and feels like you might blow out your knee when you get to your feet or land a floater.
My frustration- on a clean chest high wave this morning, going backside. I'm going down the line when this guy pops out of the whitewater on his stomach, on a 9ft lb. he flips, I go to get out of the way, I fall, my board now has a 4 inch crack in the rail and a quarter sized ding in the rail from the fin. Good thing I'm not paying, but now I have to surf this swell on a 7'6". Bummer.