yeah I really love it :confused: especially when you bumb your head on the bottom... but I do agree that it makes you apprechaite the power of ocean
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yeah I really love it :confused: especially when you bumb your head on the bottom... but I do agree that it makes you apprechaite the power of ocean
look forward to it, hate it, etc...
Of course it stinks when there's a beautiful wave coming and you paddle for it, catch it, nose-dive, get pummeled... crap. But there is a certain "Whoah, what the heck just happened?" quality to it - like taking off late, somehow making the drop, and riding it - except you wiped out and you're not riding it - you're getting killed by it.
i don't mind as long as my board doesn't get messed up and i don't lose it. i surf longboard with no leash
I love when my board hits me right in the noggin...I am now the owner of a sweet harry potter scar. Thank you Kyle.
well yesterday I wiped out from the lip and fell on my board ( Lucky the fins didn't catch me), my friend almost had to get stitches... I'm talking about those big wipeouts when you come out unscathed.
I did the same thing haha. It is funny as helll when you get to the surface
its so much fun taking a nice fall as long as your not in shallow water and crash you head on the bottom
if the waves are good but I am having trouble surfing, I'll go sit inside and just take off on closeout and get beat until I get my head on straight.
yeah sometimes wiping out is fun but on some days its not fun. but getting barreled is way better.