^ spot on holmes
^ spot on holmes
I'd hate to see an 8 foot day there.Is he serious?
That guy that dropped in on Dillon in #9 needs his a$$ kicked. TOTAL KOOK MOVE!
And yes 4' Hi is like 2+OH here.
I just don not inderstand the reasoning of measuring a wave by its backside. I mean a below level waves like chopes is what 6 in ch back 15 foot face.lol
Faces matter imo.:rolleyes:
yes, so true Jason..They also had an article about the injuries at pipe as of late, and one vid shows a seriously bad drop in that did lead to a injury. You can imagine what might have happened to the guy that did that there, right in front of everyone.
Must suck to paddle in to what you know is going to be one serious ass kicking by the local crews there. Guess it is just best to take your medicine and hope you can walk away on your own:eek:
Drop ins are so not cool, just like your latest vid of that spot shows.
Also, I think they did stop giving size in terms of the back of the wave in HI, due to tourons almost dying when they hear wave size of only 4 to 5 feet, from the back of a wave. The tourons show up and go swimming when it is really DOH, HI size. So they changed it to avoid being sued, from what I was told.
If I'm not mistaken, Micah posted the history behind the "Hawaiian" measurement system a year back or so.
The Hawaiians were trying to find a way to make their lineups less crowded, so they thought that if they made it seem like their waves were smaller than they actually were, fewer people would paddle out. On surf reports, they began to measure waves from their back side, with the hope that when visitors heard, "3 foot and clean," they would not bother to paddle out, even though they were 6-8' faces.
As for the wave that made this thread so damn long, I'm pretty sure you can see a guy on the near jetty. Assuming he is six feet tall, it looks like that wave is between 10 and 12 foot. That'd make sense for Squan Inlet... there's no place in New Jersey that could hold a wave that clean looking at bigger than 20 foot, and that wave is by no means breaking as far out as some of you guys are saying... it looks around the 10-12' range, maybe 15' at biggest. The thing is, though... that's effing huge. Before people go complaining about a wave not being thirty feet tall, remember that we aren't used to waves being HUGE like that.
As a size reference, you could stand up in whatever room you're in. Chances are it's an 8' ceiling, give or take. Apply that to a wave, and you realize that 8 feet is damn big. For a 30 foot wave, try going to a school that has 3 floors. Stand outside by the wall. That's around 30 feet. That's enormous in the form of a wall of water, and no place on the east coast that I know of can hold it. It's not like that's a big deal, though. We just need to be honest with ourselves... the continental shelf extends too far for us to see the kind of swell that Hawaii, the South Pacific, the West Coast, or the West Coast of Europe sees. Doesn't mean we don't have intense swells, just that they're not as intense as Chopes, North Shore, or Jaws!
Delaware has put up some mean looking 8-12 foot waves, North Jersey has had some as well, and I've seen OBX waves up to 15 foot, but that's pretty much it.
I wasn't saying that the Atlantic couldn't produce that kind of swell. The islands' near topography allows for absurdly large waves; France, Spain, and Ireland have all seen insanely large waves, Puerto Rico holds some healthy swells as well. With that said, none of those places are east coast USA, as in Maine to Florida.
In other words, we're not disagreeing.