crazy drops all day
crazy drops all day
stayed patient and waited for the afternoon incoming tide. Perfect barrels for 2-3 hours. No complaints.
I had the greatest time ever yesterday. 48th was firing all day practically, there was a West OZ looking sandbar that had some crazy barrels which led into an easier barreling left. Vince was killing it, making air drops left and right. Needless to say it was one of the best solid swells weve had in a while.
My epoxy santa cruz was dinged too! Theres a big gash in the bottom. I think it hit some dune fence or maybe it was from my knee after getting maytaged a few times.
but who cares it was so much fun!
Rhode island point breaks, coves, and rock bottom beach breaks. It was so much fun despite the disturbing number of kayakers at one western spot. Will post pictures later.
sunday- joined 10+ early birds at dawn for 3 hours.solid head high sets with bigger ones coming thru' once in a while. Got a few before it got way too crowded-3 guys to a wave and so on.....ended up going two piers south defitinely less crowded and more spread out. finally saw some rights coming in and got a bomb that changed my perspective on my own surfing-turns out i can do it!! it felt so good to stomp my feet at the bottom turn and pump(for my life) came out the back laughing at everything soooo high. At hour 5 my shoulders locked up so i headed in on a nice left that decided to close out on me when i wasnt looking but thats ok, i was still laughing.
Monday- woke up at 8 with a headache from the beer drinking, checked it down the street,and went out to chest to head high waves which quickly got rid of my headache. or maybe it was the sun, or the beautiful weather, or the fact i was solo choosing waves. ate an awesome breakfast thinking about taking the longboard out for the afternoon.
I hope everyone had so much fun this weekend of grand waves. stay positive and healthy for wind,tides,and swells will come together again soon for us to enjoy.
PS-post pics if you got em'!