A couple of my favorite books that will really take your mind on that journey is Jimmy Buffets, "Salty Piece of Land" and also his other one called "Where is Joe Merchant".
Both books were #1 best sellers!
He has written a few others which are also very good but these are my two favs. I think I've easily read them at least 6 - 8 times and also have gotten the audio versions.
The only problem with reading these books is that you will be booking airline tickets when you finish reading them!
just finished crazy for the storm. Good easy read.
If Jimmy buffet's books are anything like his lyrics, then of course they would be awesome.
Just finished "Orange Sunshine" by Nicholas Schou.
Crazy story of some 60's surfers/heads who are smuggling Afghani Hash in surfboards. They attempted to "turn on" the world through LSD and higher plane shenanigans. Jimi Hendrix, Timothy Leary, Owsley and Mike Hynson (Endless Summer) feature prominently.
These guys were whack. Guns, girls, and the eras finest chemicals! The Hippie Mafia! How can you go wrong?
the wave is interesting, but i really preferred ghost wave by chris dixon. much more balanced, paints a better overall picture of big wave surfing, &, IMO, reads less like a monument to laird's ego. but then, i'm not really a fan of laird.
saltwater buddha sound interesting...i'll have to give that a look.
surf for your life, mick fanning's autobiography, is intersting as well. i know a lot of people think he's robosurfer or whatever, but i really became a fan after reading it. same thing for slater's pipe dreams, occy's autobiography, & eddie aikau's biography. it gives you just a little peek behind the curtain at the real people & what their lives have been like.
north shore chronicles is a good collection of short stories, as is good things love water.
lots of good surf books out there if you know where to look.
Gerry Lopez has a good book out there, i forget what its called, but its a collection of his stories.
Bluewater Goldrush, about urchin diving on the west coast. Not really a "surfing" book, but theres some surfing in it.
All for a few perfect waves, if you like him or not Miki Dora's escapades provide for a good read.
And Susan Casey's other book The Devils Teeth. Bout the farallon islands off the coast of San Francisco and the great whites that go there.
I love surfing and specially in the winters because in this time the atmosphere is quiet pleasant with cold waves. To get more trics about surfing i use to study various books and here is the list of those :-
1. Liquid Comfort -A surf story
2. Tapping the source
3. Return by water -A surf story and adventure
this is the list of some books i use to study to get more knowledge about surf.
da bull - life over the edge by greg noll