Ohh ya man... I have to stop surfing all the time. I've lived at the beach my whole life and have surfed since i was really really young. But now that I'm in college, I have to quit every fall. Its terrible!!! But I go to school in Colorado, which makes it not so bad, especially in the winter when i can just snowboard every day. But the worst is the fall. No snow in CO, and good waves here on the east coast. Its always the hardest time of year for me.
I have only quit surfing once since I started, and it was because I got a bacterial infection in my leg from surfing in Polluted water. I did it many times before, but one time, i got bacteria in my leg through an ingrown hair on my leg, and 30 days later, I could barely walk. After a trip to the ER and like 5 rounds of anti-biotics and a lot of healing, I was out of the water for about 3 months. IN THE WINTER, IN SAN DIEGO. It was brutal. But basically, I would just put on my headphones, go sit on the pier every day and just watch everyone surfing. I would check the cams and when the local pros came out, I would run down to the beach and sit and watch them. Taking mental notes at everything they did. How they were taking off on airs. How they were doing everthing. When and where on the rails they grabbed.... So while it sucks to be out of the water, when I got back in, I surf better than I ever had in my life. Just because I had been soaking in all this information for months, and it paid off in the long run. I got better in that 3 months of not surfing than I would have if I was wet every day...
So sometimes its good to take a "Break" from surfing. But to say quit... No... The only situation that I could see myself "Quiting" surfing is if I ended up Landlocked. My fiance and I both have landlocked families in Baltimore/DC. They no longer own condos or anything in Ocean City... So, for whatever reason, if somehow, some way I had a lapse in judgement and ended up back a couple hours inland. I might quit. Just out of spite. Just out of pure rage that I had to drive 2 hours to get there, and most likey would get skunked all the time. And if I got caught up and end up being in Baltimore when there is Head High swell in Ocean City, It would drive me so absolutely nuts that I would just have to quit all together. Just out of bitterness.... Which is why even if I dont stay out here, I will put 130% of my effort into keeping me, and my soon to be family right by the beach... I dont need surf everyday. But when swell is there, you gotta have yourself setup so you can be there. Otherwise you will just torment yourself mentally... Just scratching your surf itch a few times will leave you nuts!
I HATE SURFING...word of the wise, dont try it because now i cant quit. dont try it youll hate it
I went from surfing before and after school in San Diego to maybe surfing 3-4 times a month now that I am stationed in VA....gun in mouthhh fuuuuuuccckkkBLAMMM I won't ever quit though.
my brother straight up quit, gay cus i didn't have anyone to surf with when i first started had to learn alot just by myself, he got into some bad habits and dosnt surf any more, i did get his board though so i guess its all good