I do something similar. When snap to my feet I immediately do a little half turn at the top of the wave to get me racing the lip. I might do a bottom turn but never at the drop in. As stated above, its such a speed killer.
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I do something similar. When snap to my feet I immediately do a little half turn at the top of the wave to get me racing the lip. I might do a bottom turn but never at the drop in. As stated above, its such a speed killer.
Yea...maybe pro was a strong term to use, since I'm not pro and can catch them on an angle for the most part...but there are definitely days when you have to drop in straight down, its just too heavy to go in at an angle. Am I alone on this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Aguaholic
well yea, when its just a fun day, all do a nice hefty bottom turn, but when the waves get heavier and barreling, i have to start out at an angle to get myself in the pocket with speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Darealm
But if your "pro", you can do the gnarly bottom turn into the barrel and pump inside it, then get spit out and do a 10 ft air out the wave.... but im sure none of us are doing that :D
no dude i definitely agree with you. some days when the waves are getting steep fast and pitching hard if you try to take off at an angle you cant get the speed and will most likely get sucked over the falls.Quote:
Originally Posted by Darealm
im still getting used to riding steeper waves and can make the drop but a lot of them have been closeouts where i surf lately so i get a bottom turn in and maybe a top turn if im lucky before the thing closes out. i think maybe i need to try getting into the waves earlier and not make such late drops.
i agree with you guys though commitment and a fast pop up are key, if theres any hesitation at all you wont make it
1. commit commit commit. you have to be 100% sure you're oging to drop in right when you start paddling. when you are paddling, it has to be harder than usual also. any extra inches before the wave really falls out will help a lot. on the drop itself, you can't hesitate for a second or you're either going to bail or pretty much go over the falls
2. when you pop up, it has to much quicker than usual. on a mushy wave, you can have the luxury of maybe looking down the line for a second or just preparing yourself. on steep drops, the second youre done w/ the last paddle you have to be instantaneously popping up.
focus your weight completely forward and as you're dropping try to work the bottom turn into the drop. otherwise, unless you really can generate a lot of speed off a bottom turn you're probably going to miss the wave.
nailing a steep drop and turn is a sick rush, especially when you come out w/ a lot of speed
Dude....a lot of us are doing that. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by mexsurfer
I just got back from Hawaii and basically you had to late drop on everything. Which leads to a instant shack that you MUST pump inside to get the hell out of. Waves in Hawaii are so powerful that a couple swipes and i am up on the wave. No super paddling, no kicking. Just 1,2, and up.
Comparing Hawaii to NJ is pointless. But, once in a while here in NJ we do get a super fast, steep, hollow wave.
My point though is you don't need to be pro to be able to drop in on these beasts.
It just take practice....and commitment.
On fast, steep, hollow waves...there is no reason to paddle hard or even kick for that matter. Just a simple 1,2 and up will do it. Late drops are where it's at. Until you can do a late drop...you are missing a very valuable part of surfing. Mush burgers can require the paddle from hell and kicking like you got a great white behind you.
But you absolutly don't need to paddle like a psyco for fast hollow waves...maybe thats what you are doing wrong?
i dono, i find any extra bit of time you have to take the drop it will be a little less vertical
everyone is a little different.....but for me.....getting vertical = tits :D
wide tail boards are bad on steep suckouts