I have kind of a fat guy on a little board thing going, so I kick, flail, double arm paddle whatever it takes. I push my head down and actually push the board down with my chin.
When I'm worn...

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I have kind of a fat guy on a little board thing going, so I kick, flail, double arm paddle whatever it takes. I push my head down and actually push the board down with my chin.
When I'm worn...
Guessing many may know this, but others may not, so may be useful. There are boards that are designed to be ridden with 5 fins at the same time, and there are boards with 5 boxes meant to be ridden...
-Start paddling earlier. Takes an extra stroke or 2 or 3.. to get a big tanker moving, but once moving should catch waves easy.
-If your on the fringe of catching a wave, kick your feet towards...
+1. Usually that means it hangs in my garage all summer on a plastic hanger. I seem to be getting 3-5 years out of a wintersuit by basically doing nothing special to them at all.
Only thing...
f-me. this is terrible.
Pushing my chin into my board when trying hard to catch a wave
Just spend more time on a shortboard. and you'll get the timing, paddling technique back for a shorter board. Maybe look for spots that tend to break a little softer slower if possible on the better...
What Volume?
Mine is 6'5" x 21 x 2 5/8. Vol 1.3 cu ft....If I went with a swallow tail instead of round, the same board would have been 6'4" according to Mike.
I'm totally sold on them. Off the rack boards don' fit me, and even if they did, they fall apart under my heavy feet very quickly. Add to that, and off the rack Merrick or Rusty will cost me the...
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I have a flashback fish. Had Mike do a roundtail on mine. It's 6'5", 5 fin fusion. I ride it as a quad in smaller stuff, and tri in bigger stuff
Board has a ton of range. Works in tiny surf as...
I would consider what your experiencing to be a good thing.
Traction = good
Slipping = bad
Just lift up more when your repositioning your feet....it's not glue after all :-)
I use a minimalist approach to my suits. A 3/2 and a 6/5/4. 7 mil boots and mittons are 5 mil I think. A 5/4/3 can be used instead of the 6/5/4, but i prefer the extra warmth in trade for a tad...
Can You ollie on a skateboard, or bunny hop on a bicycle? Same principal different vehicle.
It's hard to explain the motion, but if you can do either of those things, you basically know it. ...
3/2. No booties needed...yet
Depends on the spot. That said, around here, when in doubt, shoot for incoming tide.
A longboard really is a solid addition to anyones quiver in my opinion. I started on a shortboard, but soon after I started picked up an old 60's longboard at a yard sale and had a ton of fun on...
I say go for it. In my opinion, that POD you described is too big for you, but that is probably a good thing given your skill level, but I definitely wouldn't go any bigger.
I say get a used...
On smaller waves, paddle on an angle in the direction you'll be going. Also, paddle harder and earlier. The hardest thing for me to figure out when i started is how hard you really need to paddle...
+1. I surf nj year round. I dont think its as bad as many on here make it sound. Go 6/5/4 hooded suit, 7 mil boots and gloves (mittons best). I dont use any tricks, just my cars heater before and...
If u dont have wife kids etc that make free time a very scarce commodity, I say go.
Swell angle looks kind of bad, so on top of potentially being too big for you, it may also be littere with...
"A bad day of surf is better than a raise"
Uh, not so sure about that...
+1 for LBcrew...great explanation.
The only time I really get excited about a hurricane swell around here is when its one of those ones that comes up the coast really hugging shore, usually after...
I used to have this problem with all off the rack boards because I'm heavy. I found the glass job on my one CI to be the worst...just so thin.
Anyway, to extend the life of the board, I would...
With a SE angle a a 13 to 14 sec period, youll be better served to concentrate on finding a spot that isnt going to close out rater than worrying about the longest wave.