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    I think the first big wave changes your life. I...

    I think the first big wave changes your life. I spent far too many years surfing only up to 5-6 feet, afraid to take the drop on anything much bigger. First time you paddle on double overhead it...
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    I saw a kayaker at my local break last week who...

    I saw a kayaker at my local break last week who had pig hooves instead of feet. No joke, I paddled closer for a better look. Not booties, legit pig feet. One big toe, and the other four webbed...
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    Agreed. Plus we've got warm water advantage on...

    Agreed.
    Plus we've got warm water advantage on Cali. They're waves are great, but in NJ I'm surfing in my board shorts 5+ months of the year. Best all around.
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    I've always thought about putting rainx on the...

    I've always thought about putting rainx on the bottom... everytime I'm in the car while its raining I'm thinking it has to be a good idea!
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