Skinning it is fun, but you pay for it. Now I'm all rashered up. Gonna have to dig up the rashy.
Not as good today. Chest-to-Head with some wind texture, marine layer, and cold pools in the water....
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Yesterday, 08:36 PM
Jul 25, 2016, 07:13 PM
Today was really nice. Second time I've been able to trunk it this summer, and it was warm! Chest-to-Head with rare OH bombers from the parade of hurricanes. Tropical swell to continue and increase...
Don't go to HI in September just to get waves, go to get laid.
Unless there is a ridiculously out-of-season NW running--there won't be 'cuz it's a La Nina year--just stay in Wakky and plow hawt...
Jul 21, 2016, 07:43 PM
Monday was kinda blown, but okay. Chest-high. A handful of guys out.
Tuesday was better, Head-high and textured, but lots of clean barrels. Solo session.
Wednesday was firing! Way Overhead...
Use a bicep, ankle, or no leash. Wristies get in the way of paddling and break easier.
If you're goofy, put the plug and leash on your left so it doesn't get in the way of dropknee.
It's BZ, so it's garbage. It's got a center plug wristie, and that's garbage. The whole thing is worth $20 if it's brand new still wrapped in plastic.
Jul 15, 2016, 02:04 PM
Been sponging 3-5 days every week. Southern swell train keeps on chugging along. Last 2 weeks have been smaller, more like chest-to-head. Looks to pick back up next week.
If your driving north of LA don't.
Go to Trestles with ten-thousand of your bestest buddies. Check out the ripcurl outlet there and pick up some cheep wetsuits. It's not the store, it's the place...
Jun 27, 2016, 09:20 PM
Skinned it for the first time this year. Crazy early thanks to the relentless south swell train we've had for the past weeks and weeks. Usually can't go without rubber until September, if at all....
Jun 16, 2016, 02:53 PM
Monday was meh+. Chest-to-head with a few bigger sets. A bit walled, but you could find corners.
Tuesday was meh++, Head high with occasional OH sets. Still walled. Still warbly from the strong...
Jun 14, 2016, 10:14 PM
Jun 14, 2016, 08:37 PM
How is a tax on bullets that pays for private security services part of a "police state"? Nanny state, maybe. We have taxes on booze and cigs for the damage they do to society, there's no reason not...
Jun 14, 2016, 02:33 PM
Lets tax bullets so they're $200 a pop.
Then use those taxes to pay for armed and armored security at public gathering places, schools, and the like.
It would cost an active shooter $10,000 to...
Jun 8, 2016, 06:11 PM
Two more aerialists.
Jun 8, 2016, 06:10 PM
This was last week. Not all photos are me, obviously.
This week is totally flat.
Next week is good again.
Jun 2, 2016, 03:05 PM
It was rampy yesterday. Hoping for more today. Forecast says it's going to be bigger.
Here's some stills from a video.
I have a buddy who is all about being...
Jun 2, 2016, 05:22 AM
That was today, medium-sized ones. There were bigger peaks to be had.
Jun 1, 2016, 10:14 PM
Fun sized bombers today. Yesterday was blown, but today rocked. Started oil-slick and got textured sideshores. It was HH to slightly OH at first, then as the tide drained out it got bigger. Peaky and...
Pop to neutral and brake. I only downshift and engine brake in ice/snow or when trying to maintain speed downhill. 160K miles so far and no problems with the powertrain.
Brake pads don't cost...
I go every few years early/late season to the ments, and yeah, it's still busy. I don't do high season cuz of crow rumors and mostly because boats are mo money then. I go when I'm in the region...
Boat is a million times better than a camp. Camp is for those poor a-holes who have to drag their woman and kids along.
No woman: Boat the Ments.
Woman: Camp. Prolly in Bali if she doesn't surf...
Good to know your mental limits. You want to set an example, not make an example. So don't step up if you know you can't control your anger when the drunk a--hat decides to take the opportunity to...
Gut it out. Especially if your on a boat.
You're only tired when you're not surfing. Go sit on the break and be more selective. I guarantee you won't be thinking about your aches and pains when...
Do something about it, calmly. What if it had been your kid that heard it, instead of your wife? Would you have acted differently? Sometimes you just have to stand up and set an example.
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