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Apparently you didn't surf the Andrea swell.

You don't want to be bent like that while surfing down the line. That means your weight is heavily toward your front foot. The best surfing as far as turns and manuevers in the pocket is done off...

Good man
You gotta be a real space cadet to leave your board behind. I've left a bootie or two but that's crazy.

this thread is kind of irrelevant unless you add height and weight (and even age) of the surfer. Apples to oranges

Bali.
Waves, culture, food, temples, volcanos, kindest people on earth
+ no ****head Hawaiians.

Obviously you have never surfed a good south swell in Oahu or Kauai. It can be awesome. I surfed overhead Rockpiles in August and it was great...Public's will scare the **** out of you on a big day...

Lyin' in my plastic bed,
Thinkin' how things weren't so cool to me.
My baby likes to shoot pool,
I Like lyin' naked in my bedroom.
Tyin' on the dinosaur tonight,
It used to be so cool too.
...

When it gets funky use Oneil wetsuit cleaner. Awesome stuff.
Prevents dry rot too...great smell, makes suit feel soft and new.
If you don't wash your suit at least with freshwater the saltwater...

The worst people are former locals that moved to California for a year or two then came back east and think they are pros, when they still suck as bad as before they moved. They can usually be found...

I still don't know how it's possible for a human to survive a fall at big chopes.
That photo looks like chaos. How do you even focus to surf a wave after negotiating that mess?

It's coming like a freight train..unstoppable really, especially since it's free this time, and it's after Sandy. There's only one option- push for more access. Some towns have passed on the ACOE...

Old habits die hard. Use to be be for rich NYers and city dwellers.
Now it's just a status symbol really. Sit by the pool or your cabana, order your $15 cheeseburger, and keep up with the Jones.

Sandy Hook to Barnegat... Including Deal, Loch Arbour, and Allenhurst.
It was a virtual wave wasteland from Long Branch to the Hook after they did the initial fill. Still is in SB and MB.
They...

North is better by far, with the except of some goods spots in AC and OC on the right swell.
However, in the surfing world NJ ranks about a 2 or 3 out of 10 overall I'd say. Really nothing to get...

Actually that's not the case. Neoprene is very resistent to VOCs including gasoline. It's actually used as seals in gasoline and chemical piping sometimes. That nice neoprene smell we all love is...

this is actually a good thing. Wetsuits last the longest when kept damp. They might stink, but they won't dry rot
The worst is dry heat

I think you proved our point. It looks like a closed out beach break, with one mudskipper on it.

You are not the only person I have heard say this and many friends I know that have moved out west say the same thing. I've surfed 10 foot Sunset Cliffs and it was a breeze. All the time in the...

maybe he wanted to wear two. Alot of big wave guys are wearing two leashes now, Dorian, Healy etc. In case one breaks they have a 2nd, or it adds breaking strength to both.

Hopefully she is and will sue the Army Corp for destroying our beaches.

Jaws is a much gnarlier wave than Waimea in every sense.
The latest paddle in footage from Jaws with Ian Walsh and Dorian can't be compared to much of anything ever done at Waimea paddling. It's...

PR or Barbados.
The rest are just to fickle to plan a trip in advance. If you can pick up an go within a day or so there are other islands, but I think Tortola, DR, Bahamas are too fickle to plan a...

Land warms faster than water. Air warms, expands, rises, lowers pressure.
Water absorbs the heat and the air does warm as fast, and the pressure stays higher.
Winds follow pressure, so the winds...

I don't think people realize just how bad this is. End of surfing for several years for the Hook to Barnegat Inlet.
At least until the next major storm takes away a large percent of the sand.

I think NC has the best waves on the EC followed by NJ.
Alot of folks I have known that have gone to school in FLA miss NJ waves. Yes every state gets good at times.
Don't rag on NJ or the EC too...