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Thread: The Timing

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    Here is an even easier fix if you dont want to paddle next to the jetty... Walk out on said Jetty. Walk past the break... Jump off jetty into lineup. Surf wave. Exit water, Walk back up the jetty... Repeat over and over.
    Great way to go - one precaution - paddle out next to it a few times first. My buddy jumped of an unfamiliar jetty on the first day of a surf trip and split his knee wide open on a rock that was out of sight and lost about 2 months of the summer.

  2. #22
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    Dec 2009
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    jetties and piers usually offer a good rip on either side depending the current. I rely on them to make a paddle out easier, but you do need to exercise calculated caution. As for surfing big waves versus small ones, i tend to agree. I can do so many more maneuvers on larger waves and paddle effortlessly into a big overhead wave than a smaller one, but that's me. Damook is a big guy, so he needs a big wave.

  3. #23
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    Jul 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by divebomb View Post
    for me, its all about momentum. think like a shark. if you stop moving, you die. When you duckdive, or rollover, or whatever, start paddling again as soon as you possibly can. Also, it isn't a rush. Steady, even, paddles. You'll get there. Don't try to get timing down to a rule or a science. There are so many factors that will affect your paddle out. Just watch on the beach for a while before you go out. Watch what other surfers do. Look for rips. consider jumping the jetty like wally said
    agreed...and a little attitude never hurt either i.e. "Screw you ocean I'm gettin out there whether you like it or not"

  4. #24
    I grew up racing so I always try and get myself into that kind of mindset paddling out when it's big, knowing you're about to go to war. If i'm paddling out with other guys, I try and compete against them, never verbalize it and don't get off your gam and go blindly into the impact zone, but overall, just to stack up against them and make it "me vs. them" out to the lineup. (Any incentive helps).

    I also try and count strokes as benchmarks when I'm hurting. If you were running you might count off stop signs or mailboxes as distance markers and convince yourself to just push to the next one, counting strokes in sets of 20-30 can help keep focus and let you know how your shoulders should be feeling at that point, and it helps provide some goals to hit when you're really struggling--"Just make it to 30, then huge exhale, and go back to work."

    I also try and focus on breathing too--always exhale while you're duckdiving, as it's really the only way to be productive while underwater and come back up charging.

  5. #25
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    the only time I ever worry about the rocks is when it's big, you're about to pass them, the current has pulled you in front of them and a good sized wave comes and you have to duckdive. Even then, I've never had an issue besides my foot touching a rock or my fin.

    Don't be scared to paddle right next to them. The current doesn't go through the rocks or even hit them. It goes out around them. Get to that current and you're golden.

    Funny story and my buddy got it on camera. Big winter day and he was sitting in front of the rocks. Took off late and missed the drop. Ended up on the rocks. Instead of gathering his board and paddling away from them back to the lineup he grabbed his board and climbed the rocks and walked in on the Jetty. The video is funny because you see him take off and then he's gone for a minute so you assume the worst. Then you see this swampthing (full winter gear) emerge from the depths onto the rocks.

    I don't even think he dinged his board and this was a worst case scenario.

  6. #26
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    Aug 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallysurfr View Post
    The current doesn't go through the rocks or even hit them. It goes out around them. Get to that current and you're golden.
    Just make sure the current is moving in the right direction. I saw a guy many years ago paddle out next to a jetty in the MB/LB area during a hurricane swell, a jetty that was removed, for the most part, when they did the first big replenishment project, and he paddled out on the wrong side or something. Got literally hammered onto the rocks. Got slammed into them and ended up on top of them. Tried to get up, got pounded down by the next wave, got up, slipped, pounded again... Terrifying. My worst nightmare. Rocks totally sketch me out.

    A guy from town a couple years ago got pounded so hard onto the rocks he ended up with broken ribs and collapsed lung.

  7. #27
    Thrown onto a jetty....been in that spot more than I would care to count...late drops in front of a jetty, paddling out opposite side of the current right before a set unloads, caught inside after getting rejected and pushed over...mmm...great memories.

    However, as far as paddling out...conditioning, knowing what to look for, watching the regulars, etc. will help. Work on your duck dive...especially dig in during the summer (not too helpful...I know). Try working on duck diving a mid-length or retro board...that will force you to really focus on technique. If you are able to get it on those...you'll be fine any other day. In mean time, take your lumps as your technique improves...or just surf during low-tide

    As far as large waves are concerned, I surf triple overhead at Tres Palmas and I'll tell you what...nothing has been the same since. If you ever get the opportunity and can get out (and back in for that matter) in some big stuff...puts it all in perspective after that.

  8. #28
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    Nov 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by live4truth View Post

    As far as large waves are concerned, I surf triple overhead at Tres Palmas and I'll tell you what...nothing has been the same since. If you ever get the opportunity and can get out (and back in for that matter) in some big stuff...puts it all in perspective after that.
    Word!!

    I thought I was going to die at 12 ft witches rock. There, if you get stuck inside, youre putting your friends at risk to come get you. There's no dunkin donuts on the beach there...you're ride home is out the back. My paddling, surfing, awareness, and perspective have never been the same since.

  9. #29
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    Sep 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by LBCrew View Post
    I saw a guy many years ago paddle out next to a jetty in the MB/LB area during a hurricane swell, a jetty that was removed, for the most part, when they did the first big replenishment project, and he paddled out on the wrong side or something. Got literally hammered onto the rocks. Got slammed into them and ended up on top of them. Tried to get up, got pounded down by the next wave, got up, slipped, pounded again...
    Not that that's only happened to one guy, but considering the timeframe and location, that may have been my buddy. It cost him several weeks of surfing and a board (had to remove the leash and let it go). He looked like he had been dragged behind a car and the board looked like it had been used for shotgun target practice.

    Like it's been said, mastering the duck dive is key! Many years ago, I paddled out in an LB winter on a head-high day. It was cold, so I was attempting to minimize the amount of duck diving. I paddled for over 15 minutes (duck diving only once) and never got further than 10 yards from the beach. When I started duck diving, I made it out past the break in under 5 minutes. Lesson learned.

    Also, conserve your energy for the break-zone. Despite the amount of energy you have coming off the beach, paddle at a moderate rate so you have energy to initiate the duck dives and paddle a bit harder when it's about to come down on your head. Just my 2 cents.

  10. #30
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    Jan 2009
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    honestly, as far as jetties go, on a real small day I will paddle up the rocks, but every jetty i surf has somewhat of a channel a few hundred yards down the beach. Even on bigger days I can usually walk out into neck deep water, just far enough away from the impact zone that the sets break out further and leave you just jumping over reformed slop, then when the set ends, dart out... Then i paddle way back down to the lineup. Its the only respectful way to do it. If you dont know the rip etc, paddling the rocks will usually leave you in the impact zone while others are taking off (on big days).

    So although all of these theories hold true, they are not recommended. Just watch where the end of the wave section is. Watch for 5-10 minutes and you will notice a softer, deeper area. Paddle there.

    Like I said before. People get freaked out in big surf because of the paddle out, and having to navigate out there to avoid large sets. I still get butter flies in my stomch the whole way to the cliffs when its 12ft+... But once you watch, pick the easy road out, you will end up out there and all the nerves are gone.

    If you make a poor decision on where to paddle out on a big day, you may just mentally never get over it. If you get thrashed the whole way out for 20 minutes, you will hesitate on all your take offs and just surf passively....

    The biggest big wave hurdle is getting out. There is nothing wrong with finding the channel, paddling out and sitting out wide for a few minutes. Gather your thoughts, watch some other guys take off and see how makable everything is... Its a process that only comes with spending time surfing. The more you surf and the older you get, you will figure out ways to surf longer, surf older and surf smarter. And most of that is picking the right board. Picking the right place to go when its big. And knowing how to paddle out very calmly, very quickly and very safely... Everything else falls into place. The surfing is the easy part...