two years in a row it was good here, and two years in a row it was totally flat for two and a half weeks prior to

two years in a row it was good here, and two years in a row it was totally flat for two and a half weeks prior to
haha funny yea today was really fun felt so great to get barreled again and just stand on a wave
make that 4 years in a row (technically 5 different days). yeah i'm 'that guy' who keeps track. 1-19-2007 was almost the same as today. that was the first day i ever went out in 'bigger surf'. today was sick though.
Def a super fun day here. Barrels felt gooood !![]()
must've been a lot better earlier in the day b/c when i paddled out after school it certainly wasn't barreling. it was, however, a solid waist-chest & super, super fun! i'm in no way complaining. i'm just skeptical of the claims of shackage. if you got it, great. after it being flat for so long, being sick all weekend, & only surfing once in the last 2 months, i was thrilled to get what i did!
i actually need to get my act together & write up a board review for yesterday's session.
Oh, there were barrels alright...
oh it was def barreling
its global propaganda, i mean warming..
last weekend swell? does anyone remember? the last two times i've surfed (barring my south afirca trip) i had to take off work. nature hates ppl w/ jobs.