january 19 surf 2010/2011

[LBCrew]

Idk where you surfed but i was out from 4-530 after school and barrels were really nice. some of them got really heavy too i was surprised

Yea... crazy that there were still some jaacking peaks at 4pm. Nobody expected that. My last wave of the day sucked up on the drop and was overhead trough to pitching lip. Kicked my a$$. Ha! Most of the waves by then were waist to chest high, but there was a groundswell pulse that was holding up shoulder to head high set waves every once in a while. That, and the low-to-incoming tide produced some overachieving nuggets for sure.

[surfingboy65]

yea i was just hoping for like waist high max but pulled up and it was chest to head i paddle out and saw some really big barrels i was pumped i got killed by one it i tried tucking in through a peak section it just dumped on me pretty heavy