I surfered all morning with only two guys out, it was choppy, drifty and warm, but found some nice clean workable walls. It's a good learning experience to surf in choppy conditions, prepares you for the good days, plus we live on the east coast, it's very rare to get off-shore, 4-6ft, warm conditions, you need to take advantage of the choppy slop, plus no crowds.
So if surf the Delmarva region and didn't paddle out today, then thanks for keeping the line up empty.
Just because it shows red doesnt mean its going to be red. Iv'e been following the wind patterns today and there not matching up exactly to forecast. Im thinking its gonna switch early more toward the west by late day. Atleast in assateague va. The winds are currently down to 6mph south.
- If your beach is facing the swell (for example a E-facing beach during a E swell), expect the full forecasted wave height, but beware The Closeout. Bottom structure will help create ‘wrap’ and minimize closeouts, so look for points, jetties, sunken pirate ships.
- If your beach faces away from the swell direction — for example, if you’re on a SE beach during a NE swell–expect smaller waves that wrap and break away from the swell direction
- If the swell is ‘crossed up’, go to a beach that faces in between the two swells — for example, in a SE / NE combo swell, go to a E-facing beach. This way you get the peaks
Its looking like a fun week ahead for all my peeps back in OC MD! I know its gonna be windy, but there will be lulls in the wind. Maybe some dawn patrols hours will clean up. But there is surf all week for sure. I'm sure the locals will know where to be and score all week.
Again, its the east coast, so the wind predictions 3-5 days from now could change quite a bit by then... Have faith. Even if the wind stays onshore at 11-15MPH, that is still plenty surfable....
Its all in how you look at it. Use heavy onshore wind days to try airs and stuff and work on moves off the lip. Airs actually work 100 times easier with the onshore flow, cause when your fins release it pops you back in the right direction and the lips pitch more quickly. the momentum keeps you angled better so your air doesn't accidentally turn into a kick out over the back.
Onshore wind isnt always bad. You may just not get many clean barrel looks. Plenty of face time and punchy lip sections to go after though.
Use the wind to your advantage even when its bad... It could be worse. It could be flat and windy.