right when you pop up on a big set, and you look down the line to see an untouched wall of water you have to yourself to carve up
I love that too. i remember a specific time from the moment you are referring. Hurricane Bill, sunday morning, 1st light. I paddle out and was so overly stoked i paddled for the 1st wave i saw and tried to stand up under the lip and ate it hard. I paddled back out and didn't catch another wave for 20minutes. Fuming and now 50 more people out in the water, i see a big set coming and the 1st 2 waves wash out the beach, and the 3rd one broke out way out side, and i was the farthest outside, and caught the whitewater. Once i stood up, i dropped down, i did a bigger than typical bottom turn than i'm used to in new jersey, and as i begin to set my line, the wave builds and the white water ceases, and i see a 2ft overhead crisp wall of water, and i couldn't help but smile. I think i did 3 top turns in a row, which is really quite rare in this neck of the woods, and got barreled in the inside. Man that wave was one to remember. Sorry, but i felt compelled to tell you that.
But one of my favorite feelings in surfing either that moment when you know your going to get shacked on a wave as you see a barreling section come, or the paddle back out after you catch a good one. Thats what keeps me coming back everyday.
Best feeling...catching the last wave in a fat daddy set on your favorite board and ripping it to shreds it in front of the locs who are paddling back out and getting the head nod. Worst feeling... catching the last wave in a fat daddy set on your favorite board and eating it in front of the locs who are paddling back out and getting the head shake.